WEDNESDAY, JULY 7, 2010
KLMNO
There’s more than surf on the owner’s new turf TOM SIETSEMA
First Bite
of the dishes at the Chesapeake Room on Capitol Hill involve oys- ters, crabs or rockfish. That’s intentional, says owner
T
Xavier Cervera. With his latest restaurant, a 1,100-square-foot slip of a thing, he hopes to show patrons there’s more in the re- gion to celebrate than what swims in the water. As in, bison from a ranch outside Baltimore, pork and chicken from farms in Pennsylvania and wine from vineyards in Virginia. Designed by Cervera, the nar-
row 40-seat dining room packs in a lot of personality. The oil paint- ings on the indigowalls reflect various aspects of area life, from oyster rakers in the Rappahan- nock River to duck hunters on the Eastern Shore. Behind the bar, rich with curly maple, hovers a 350-gallon fish tank that’s so heavy it requires an iron frame- work “that could support a Volk- wagen,” says the restaurateur. Italian leather distinguishes the stools and booths. Another 40 seats grace the patio to the side, where ceiling fans keep it from becoming a furnace in hot weath- er.
Cervera found his chef, Robert
Wood, in Savannah, where Wood had cooked at Georges’ of Tybee, an upscale American eatery. Fig- uring “everyone does a crab cake” here, the self-taught 32-year-old created a twist on the classic in which fried green tomatoes play the role of the bun, and a crab salad, whispering of basil, stands in for the usual patty. The appetizer was the (savory) standout of a recent dinner that
he name out front and the decor inside shout “sea- food.” But fewer than half
MG PG VA
Restaurants GOOD TO GO
E3
KATHERINE FREY/THE WASHINGTON POST
General Manager Ambiya Pinnix, with one of Patty Boom Boom’s signature savory pies and a glass of Jamaican sorrel.
Patty Boom Boom on U Street NW PHOTOS BY JAMES M. THRESHER FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
included a satisfying bison bur- ger served with chunky, mustar- dy potato salad; marinated and smoked oysters that smacked too strongly of smoke; simple roasted rockfish; and a pork chop that had been left too long on the heat (it was overcooked). Not a crumb remained of the chef’s dreamy cheesecake, presented on a gra- ham cracker crust spiked with candied ginger. Cervera owns two other places
Top, the 40-seat dining room; above, the crab salad appetizer made with fried green tomatoes.
to eat and drink on Barracks Row: Molly Malone’s and Lola’s Barracks Bar & Grill, which is named after his late mother, also a restaurateur. Soon he’ll have even more on
his plate in the neighborhood. First up is Senart’sOyster House,
DISH
Edited excerpts from the Going Out Gurus blog (voices.
washingtonpost.com/ goingoutgurus):
DINING WITH BENEFITS: Suburban restaurants typically offer plentiful free parking, but for the downtown diner, finding an available spot can be a real drag.
A partnership of restaurants and parking garages in the Golden Triangle has tackled the
downtown parking problem with a program called “Dine Golden/Park Golden.” After 5 p.m. daily through Aug. 14, more than 26 restaurants will be offering buy-one-get-one specials, and 10 area parking garages will be extending their hours and offering a flat $5 rate until at least midnight on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. According to the Golden Triangle Business Improvement District, that will
free up an additional 1,500 parking spaces in the restaurant-heavy area. The list of participating eateries includes some intriguing options, such as the Bombay Club and the Oval Room, both offering a free dessertwith dinner; Kaz Sushi Bistro, where you can have a drink on the house with a $25 food order; and the Palm, where appetizers come two-for-one. And it’s not all traditional
restaurants. Public Bar, one of 18th Street’s best stops for sports and suds, is getting in on the act, along with the popular lounge and nightspot Science Club. The full list of participating establishments and garages can be found at www.goldentriangledc. com/dine-golden.
— Justin Rude
which will be a reincarnation of an establishment of the same name at the same location (520 Eighth St. SE) that operated from 1913 to 1939. It will feature a 45- foot-long oyster bar, will serve gumbo and pork chops and will havea New Orleans vibe, says Cervera, who is aiming for a De- cember launch. After that, he wants to open an even bigger con- cept: a combination smokehouse, bakery and wine venue offering sandwiches, charcuterie and cheese plates. Yet to be named, the multi-purpose business is tar- geted for winter 2011.
501 Eighth St. SE. 202-543-1445.
thechesapeakeroom.com. Main plates, $13-$25.
Say what you like about Ja- maican patties. They can be dry. They can be heavy. But for a long night of drinking and per- haps the morning after, the spicy stuffed pies are just what you need to keep on moving. So it made sense that the
brains behind Marvin and the Gibson on U Street would open a carryout specializing in the sa- vory pastries on the ground floor of their new reggae club, Patty Boom Boom. The cafe re- cently extended its hours from lunchtime till late at night. The space is functional.
There are a few reggae posters on the walls, slim counters that run along the windows and some wooden stools. Even at midday, the music is loud enough to give the joint a club- by vibe. The menu is as spare as the
decor. Since opening last win- ter, Patty Boom Boom has ex- perimented with varieties of patties ($3.75 each) and now of- fers spicy or mild ground beef, jerk chicken, pimento chicken, guava goat and vegetarian. Be- sides patties, the only items sold are Jamaican drinks such as Red Stripe beer, coconut water and a traditional Jamaican sor- rel, a kind of hibiscus tea that can be mixed with ginger or mint syrup ($1.50, plus 25 cents to add a flavored sweetener). The oversize pastries are made after hours in the kitchen of nearby Marvin and served warm in paper sleeves. The
dough, made with vegetable shortening and a pinch of curry powder, is thick but flaky. The ground beef fillings are sea- soned authentically with all- spice, cayenne, curry and mo- lasses, among other things. But we preferred the moist, shred- ded chicken fillings: The jerk has a cool heat from allspice, and the pimento has a bright kick from cherry peppers and habaneros. We loved the veggie patty with its surprisingly sweet mix of carrots, potatoes and peas. (We ordered the guava goat, one of the most popular fillings according to General Manager Ambiya Pinnix, but we were given a second pimento chicken instead.) Patty Boom Boom offers free pickled pimento and mango sauces that are great for dunk- ing.
U Street does not attract a steady stream of daytime traffic, so it is a risky move to open for lunch. But with the World Cup in full swing, soccer fans have been learning that Jamaican patties are not just for late- night snacking. The owners of Patty Boom Boom hope they pass the message on.
— Jane Black
Patty Boom Boom 1359 U St. NW; 202-629-1712. Hours: Tuesdays through Thursdays, noon to 2 a.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, noon to 3 a.m.; Sundays, noon to 2 a.m. (with extended hours during World Cup play; call for information).
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Thursday
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Friday
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Grand Cassagne Rose.................. 7.99 High Note Malbec ........................8.99 Good Hope Chenin .......................8.99 Stump Jump Red ........................9.99 Cat & Pigeons Shiraz..................13.99 Zenato Pinot Grigio......................9.99 Perrin C-D-R Village.................... 11.99 Sabor Real Toro ...........................9.99 Firesteed Pinot Noir......................12.99 Newton Unfiltered Merlot.............29.99
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JULY 9 © 2009 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS
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