E4 la cuisine continued from E1
Street in the warehouse district of Old Town Alexandria. Her initial investment was $11,000 scraped together from savings. Two years later, “with our knees shaking,” Pollard and her husband, Robert, a contractor specializing in high- end construction, bought a cir- ca-1810 brick Georgian house and storefront at 323 Cameron St. in Old Town. Today it is home to the oldest and most successful inde- pendent kitchen store in the Washington area. It is their home as well; the cou- ple live upstairs. Over time, Rob- ert renovated the building inside and out, painting the exterior a distinctive Caribbean pink trimmed with turquoise. Above the door, he attached a wrought- iron arm from which he hung a sign: “La Cuisine, The Cook’s Re- source.” The shop is thriving. It caters to experienced and neo- phyte cooks and hosts scores of in-store events every year, with a growing online presence.
SUPER SAVER DEALS
La Vielle Ferme Red or White 5.99
Banfi Centine Red or White 8.99
Avalon Napa Cab 14.99 CA Cabernet 8.99
J Lohr Cab 10.99 Chard 8.99
Matua Sauv Blanc 8.99
Ch St Jean CA All Types 8.99
Hess Cabernet 12.99 Chard 8.99
Peter Lehmann All Types
12.99 750 ml
32.99 Hendricks
Hendricks 52.99
1.75 L
750 ml 9.99 Fris Vodka
750 ml
11.99 Malibu
Fris Vodka 17.99
1.75 L Malibu
18.99 1.75 L
1.75 L
24.99 Bombay
750 ml
Bombay 17.99
$6 REBATE-$18.99
16.99 Beefeater
750 ml
14.99 Jim Beam
Beefeater 24.99
Maker’s 28.99
1L SPARKLING & CHAMPAGNE
• Gruet Brut or Demi-Sec...12.99 • Bouvet Brut...10.99 • Cristalino Brut…6.99 • Charles De Fere…9.99 • M&R Asti..11.99 • Zardetto Prosecco..12.99 • Riondo Prosecco.. 11.99 • Gloria Ferrer........14.99 • Rotari Brut ........12.99 • Mumm Cordon Rouge...29.99 • Mumm Napa...14.99 • Roederer Rose…21.99 • Est Brut…16.49 • Feuillate Brut..29.99 • Mionetto Prosecco.. 11.99 • Pol Roger Brut ........49.99 • Perrier-Jouet Brut... 29.99 • Perrier-Jouet Fleur...99.99
750 ml
Douglas Green Steen 8.99
Beringer Founder’s 7.99
Banfi Chianti RSVA 13.99 Chianti 9.99
Joel Gott Chard 12.99 Sauv Blanc 9.99
Simi Chard 11.99 Sauv Blanc 9.99
Ferrari Carano Chard 18.99 Fume 11.99
Kim Crawford Chard or Sauv Blanc 11.99
Beringer Napa Chard 9.99
SPIRITS 1L
37.99 Grey Goose
750 ml 1.75 L
19.99 Absolut
1.75 L
21.99 Skyy
Gentleman Jack 49.99
1.75 L
Absolut 29.99
Laphroaig 43.99
750 ml 1.75 L 1.75 L
29.99 Dewar’s
750 ml
www.circlewine.net 5501 CONNECTICUT AVE, NW 202-966-0600
SALE ENDS JULY 20TH, 2010
JOIN US ON JULY 15TH FOR “THIRSTY THURSDAYS” & JULY 10TH FOR A SPECIAL WORLD CUP TASTING EVENT WITH WINES, BEERS & SPIRITS
Domestic Cabernet & Merlot & All Roses
20%Off
Dewar’s 12 Yr 25.99
22.99 Jameson
1.75L
18.99 Svedka
• Citra or CYT Frontera...6.99 • Vendange .5.99 • Meridian...12.99 • Duboeuf Red Or White..8.99 • La Vielle Ferme Red or White...11.99 • Cavit..9.99 • Bella Sera...8.99
750 ml 18.99 1.75 L
Jameson 35.99
750 ml 1.75 L
Woodford Reserve 29.99
750 ml
MAGNUMS BEERS
Bacardi Rtd’s 15.99
Bacardi Gold or Lt $3 REBATE-$15.99
26.99 Chivas
1.75 L
28.99 Stoli
1.75 L
Chivas 49.99
Balvenie 12 Yr 35.99
750 ml
• Sutter Home...8.99 • YellowTail....9.99 • Black Box....17.99 • Woodbridge......9.99 • Franzia & Almaden 5L Generics....11.99
• Becks…22.99 • Chang-Hoegaarden…27.99 • Bud or Bud Lt 18Pk Cans….9.99 • Miller & Coors Lt 18Pk…10.99 • Rolling Rock 30Pk..................................17.99 • Sam Adams-Flying Dog-Magic Hat-Sierra Nevada…25.99 • Stella............24.99 • Leffe-Harpoon…26.99 • Warsteiner-Peroni-Blue Moon-Pyramid...............25.99 • Bud or Bud Lt 12Pk…8.99/16.99 • Pabst…14.99 • Hook & Ladder .........26.99 • Tiger-Kona…27.99 • Corona 12Pk…25.99 • Landshark…23.99 • Lancaster Brewing....28.99
1.75 L S S T T
K MG
KLMNO Alexandria’s La Cuisine turns 40
A handsome woman at 65, with thick white hair and a virtually unlined face, Pollard walks down the wooden stairs from her home to the 900-square-foot store every morning wearing high-heeled shoes and the outrageous ear- rings that are something of a trademark. She checks e-mail at her small desk and monitors the flow of online sales, then takes her place behind the counter. Facing her is a gleaming in-
ventory of copper pots; stainless- steel mixing bowls; porcelain bak- ing dishes; linen towels; Sabatier, Messermeister and Shun knives; Hammersong tin cookie cutters; hand-carved wooden springerle cookie molds; cookbooks; artisa- nal foodstuffs; seasonal delights and bins full of fine baking choco- late that perfumes the store air. “Our stock is carefully edited,”
she says. “The store is small. We only have room for the best.” Pollard does not sell ceramic knives because “they break easily.” No plastic cutting boards: “Re- search shows them to be vectors
of bacteria.” Nonstick cookware also is a no-go. District resident Susan Osann,
a longtime La Cuisine customer, recalls walking into the shop in the late ’70s feeling discouraged. As the mother of young children, she had little time to spare, yet she wanted to make a great meal. “I had pulled out this recipe from ‘The Silver Palate’ cookbook. It was for white ratatouille,” she said. As Pollard had decades ago in Charlottesville, “I followed the directions, and it was such a bust.” Osann says Pollard and staff
walked her through that recipe and many more after that. “I learned from them that you have to understand what kind of pan to use, how high to turn the flame, what color the vegetables should be,” she says. “They taught me to add the spices after I sauteed but before adding the broth, because to bring out the flavors in the in- gredients you have to layer one step on top of the other.” General Manager Larissa Aven- dano, 31, and marketing director
READY, SET, GRILL
Perrin Cotes du Rhone Red, White or Natur 9.99
Estancia Cab 10.99 Chard 9.99
Lan Riserva 15.99 Crianza 9.99
Layer Cake Shiraz 13.99 Malbec or Primitivo 12.99
Guigal Cotes du Rhone Red or White 12.99
Edmeades Zinfandel 13.99
Murphy-Goode Zinfandel 13.99
Grd RSV Char, Pinot Gris or Sauv Blanc
KJ 14.99
Joel Gott Cab or Zinfandel 14.99
Juan Gil Red 14.99
KJ Cabernet or Merlot 15.99
La Crema Pinot Noir 18.99 Chard 16.99
Cambria Pinot Noir 18.99 Chard 16.99
Catena Malbec or Cab 17.99
Stag’s Leap Petite Sirah 34.99 Chard 19.99
Franciscan Chard 13.99 Cabernet 18.99
Goats Do Roam Red or White...........6.99 Ken Forrester Petit Chenin .................7.99 Excelsior Cabernet ...........................7.99 Spice Route Chenin Blanc ...............17.99
South African Wine Features 10 FOR UNDER $10
Ruffino Chianti 8.99 Orvieto 5.99
Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio 7.99
Smoking Loon Pinot Noir 7.99
Ch Ste Michelle Chard or Sauv Blanc 7.99
Penfolds Koonunga-Hill Shiraz-Cab 7.99
Rodman s
*DISCOUNTGOURMET(ANDOTHERGOODSTUFF) ™
VISIT OUR WEBSITE AND CLICK “REWARDS” TO REGISTER FOR SPECIAL COUPONS AND SAVINGS
www.rodmans.com
*
French Sparkling Limonade Asst’dFlavors
Musette 2/$5.00 25.4oz Twining’s
Ice Tea Bags Asst’dFlavors 2/$5.00 20 ct
Cold Brewed
Asst’d Types 4.9 - 10.9 oz
Crispbreads 2/$3.00
Swedish
SanMarzano Tomatoes
2/$5.00 28oz
Vermont Creamery Fr
Cheese Logs
Goa
esh t
$2.79 4oz
Chocolate Bars
Produce Specials
2/$3.00 Imported
From Italy
3.5 oz
Plain, Herb, orPepper
Anchovy Fillets Flat or Rolled
$2.99 4.25oz
Sun-Dried Tomatoes in Oil
$2.99 7oz Wisc Ave & Rand Rd Only Prices thru 7/13/2010
Blueberries1Pint. $1.89Ea Pineapples ......... $1.99 Ea Cherries ............. $2.99 Lb Nectarines.......... $1.09 Lb Strawberries1 Lb Box........... $2.39 Ea Eggplant................Peaches“Eastern”... 79¢Lb89¢ Lb
Free Parking at All Stores
Green Peppers....... 75¢ Lb Grape Tomatoes Squash,1 Pint............... $1.09 Ea BrGreen or Yellow.. 75¢ Lb
Baby Peeled Carrots 1 Lb Bag........... $1.00 Ea
occoli Crowns.. $1.49 Lb
Ann’s House of Nuts
Turkish Apricots Swiss Mix Deluxe
$3.49 16 oz $1.79 12 oz
Mixed Nuts $5.99 16 oz
Emmi Yogurt Assorted Flavors
10/$10.00 6oz
RedWineVinegar 2/$3.00 25oz
In Oil 5oz
$1.99 Tuna
Extra Virgin
Colavita Italian
Olive Oil Traditional or Fruttato
$7.99 750 ml
Texmati Rice
Assorted Types 1 Kilo Canister $4.99
Italian Espresso Regular or Decaf
$3.99 8.75 oz
White Eggs Extra Large
1 liter bottles
2/$3.00 Case/12
$17.99
NaturalSpringWater 1.5 liter bottles
99¢ ea $11.88 Case/12
Coffee Beans Assorted Types
DCWine&BeerSpecials All Wines 750 ml - unless noted
DCWINEBLOCKBUSTERS HOTWEATHER WHITES
AliceWhite Chardonnay, Shiraz 1.5 liter............ $7.99 YSanta Rita 120’s Assorted types........................ $4.99
Nob Chardonnay, Pinot Noir....................... $6.99 TEstancia Chard, Sauv. Blanc $8.99............. Cab $10.99 Simi Sauv. Blanc $8.99............... Chardonnay $10.99 ClineTrapicheMalbec, Cabernet, Torrontes................ $5.99 ton Malbec.................................................... $7.99
Nav Zinfandel.................................................. $8.99 Norarro Correas Cabernet.................................. $6.99
Nieto Malbec...................................................... $7.99 Cousino Macul Cabernet, Chard,Merlot............. $6.99
Blackstone ............ $7.99 Castle Rock............ $7.99 Echelon .................. $7.99 Estancia.............. $10.99 Coppola............... $11.99 Jadot................... $12.99 Wild Horse.......... $12.99
Cooks..................... $4.44 FreixenetCordon Negro....... $6.99 Dom. Ste. Michelle. $7.77 Bouvet Brut........... $9.99
PINOT NOIR SALE
Acrobat............... $13.99 Edna Valley......... $13.99 Erath................... $13.99 MacMurray......... $13.99 Adelsheim........... $21.99 Chalone Estate ... $24.99 Steele
CHAMPAGNE&SPARKLINGWINE
Zardetto Prosecco............... $9.99 RMummNapa....... $13.99
Dom.oederer Estate.. $15.99Carneros.... $17.99
HobellowTail Assorted types................................. $5.49 win Vines Vino Verde....................................... $4.49 Cabernet................................................ $14.99
MezzacoronaPinotGrigio.............$5.99 AcrobatPinotGris....$7.99 Brancott Sauv.Blanc..............$7.99 Chat.Bonnet............$7.99 EccoDomani PinotGrigio.............$7.99 EdnaValleyChard....$7.99 Veramonte Sauv.Blanc..............$7.99 ZenatoPinotGrigio.$7.99 ClineViognier...........$8.99 NewHarborSauv.Blanc..............$8.99
Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio ................................ $5.99 Acrobat Pinot Gris............................................ $7.99 Brancott Sauv. Blanc......................................... $7.99 Chat. Bonnet .................................................... $7.99 Ecco Domani Pinot Grigio................................. $7.99 Edna Valley Chardonnay................................... $7.99 Veramonte Sauv. Blanc..................................... $7.99 Zenato Pinot Grigio.......................................... $7.99 Cline Viognier................................................... $8.99 NewHarbor Sauv. Blanc................................... $8.99 Oyster Bay Sauv. Blanc..................................... $8.99 Martin Codax Albarino..................................... $9.99 Napa Cellars Sauv. Blanc.................................. $9.99 Villa Maria Sauv. Blanc..................................... $9.99 Kim Crawford Sauv. Blanc.............................. $11.99 Sacred Hill Sauv. Blanc.................................... $11.99 MacMurray Pinot Gris.................................... $13.99
THeineken, Heineken Light, Amstel Case cans... $19.99 DC BEER SALE Shooting Star ....$11.99
ecate Case cans............................................... $15.99 Sam Adams Assorted types cases................... $24.99 Stella Artois 12 packs....................................... $11.99 Lagunitas Cases................................................ $24.99 Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Cases........................... $24.99 Konig Pils Cases................................................ $21.99 Newcastle Brown Ale 12 packs......................... $11.99 Spaten Assorted types Cases ........................... $20.99 Budweiser&Bud Light 30 packs...................... $18.49 Miller Lite&MGD30 packs.............................. $18.49
Every Friday & Saturday all stores Beer &Wine Sampling 1-4pm
• DC Store & Pharmacy - 5100 Wisconsin Ave., NW - Phone: 202.363.3466 • Wheaton, MD - 4301 Randolph Road (at Viers Mill Rd) - Phone: 301.946.3100 • North Kensington, MD - White Flint Plaza - 5148 Nicholson La - Phone301.881.6253 NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR TYPOGRAPHICAL ERRORS
SEE OUR AD IN NEXT WEEK’S MONTGOMERY GAZETTE!
Prices Valid Thru 07/20/2010
OysterBaySauv.Blanc..............$8.99 MartinCodax Albarino..................$9.99 NapaCellars Sauv.Blanc..............$9.99 VillaMariaSauv.Blanc..............$9.99 KimCrawfordSauv.Blanc........... $11.99 SacredHillSauv.Blanc........... $11.99 MacMurray PinotGris..............$13.99
Locally Roasted $5.99 lb
Dozen 89¢
Clos du Bois Chardonnay 7.99
Toasted Head Chard or Viognier 8.99
Mark West Pinot Noir 9.99 Chard 8.99
Murphy Goode Cab, Chard or Pinot Noir 9.99
KJ Sauv Blanc 8.99 Chard 9.99
Voracious and delicious lionfish continued from E1
tered the biodiversity of a reef,” said James Morris, a NOAA ecol- ogist at the agency’s Center for Coastal Fisheries and Habitat Re- search in Beaufort, N.C. As a top predator, it consumes juvenile snapper and grouper along with algae-eating parrot- fish, all of which help keep reefs healthy. Between 2004 and 2008, local densities of lionfish in- creased by roughly 700 percent in some areas; there are now 1,000 lionfish per acre on certain reefs. In trying to create a consumer demand for lionfish, a handful of
conservationists and restaurant industry experts are saying that humans are the only predator that can wipe it out. The Reef En- vironmental Education Founda- tion is preparing a cookbook to educate chefs on how to prepare the species, a delicate and sweet white fish that tastes like a cross between snapper and grouper. “This fish is delicious,” said seafood distributor Sean Dimin, co-owner of Sea to Table, who vis- ited Beaufort last year and learned that divers were catching it in “lionfish rodeos” and cook- ing it on the beach.
Dimin brought in a single ship- ment that sold out at Chicago’s North Pond Restaurant and New York’s Esca. Now lionfish has come to Washington. On June 11, Washington chef and Blue Ocean Institute fellow Barton Seaver served it during the Smithsonian Sustainable Seafood weekend, and he gave extra fillets to chefs at Hank’s Oyster Bar, Nora, Poste Moderne Brasserie and the just- opened Ripple. “It’s taking over ecosystems
from Trinidad and Tobago all the way up to Maine,” Seaver said. “Our solution is just to eat it.” Ripple chef Teddy Diggs said
he’s experimenting with lionfish, curing it in lemon juice and salt to create a garnish for a zucchini and summer squash soup. His customers loved it, as did he after he sauteed it in brown butter, drizzled a little vinegar on it and served it over greens. “I’m look- ing forward to using it,” Diggs said. “The availability is the is- sue.”
Distributors such as Dimin
and David Johnson, president of Traditional Fisheries, are still try- ing to work out the economics of selling lionfish because catching it remains costly and labor-in- tensive. Johnson, who is based in Minnesota but whose Mexican brothers-in-law work as spear fishermen, has organized 24 fish- ermen near Cancun to catch lionfish.
“It’s spearing, spearing, spear-
ing,” said Johnson, who delivered a shipment of lionfish to Seaver. M.J. Gimbar, fishmonger at BlackSalt restaurant and market in the Palisades, said he would consider buying the fish at some point, but Johnson is not yet in a position to import it on a large, commercial scale. “At this point no, it’s not an op- tion, but it could be an option three months from now,” Gimbar said. At $24 per pound, lionfish would be priced comparably to tilefish and sturgeon, he added. Johnson is talking to fisher- men all the way down to Belize and says he hopes this new fish- ery will help compensate for the fact that other ones, such as those for conch, lobster and grouper, are closed four months a year to curb overfishing. “With lionfish, the more hunting, the better,” he said. In the meantime, scientists such as Morris are studying how the species is affecting the Flori- da Keys National Marine Sanctu- ary, and researchers from the U.S. Geological Survey are track- ing it through their Non-Indig- enous Aquatic Species Database. The situation is so serious that a group of scientists just published a journal article identifying li- onfish as one of the top 15 threats to biodiversity worldwide. “This is a big deal,” Morris said. The fish has also emerged as an underground gourmet delica- cy: There are at least three Face- book groups devoted to the cause, including “I Spear Lion- fish,” “Lionfish Derby” and “Eat the Lionfish.”
And although filleting a fish bristling with venomous spikes poses a challenge, once it’s fil- leted, lionfish is easy to prepare. I sliced it into one-inch strips, cooked it in Seaver’s version of a romesco sauce — fire-roasted vegetables pureed with almonds and olive oil — and served it over Israeli couscous for my family and friends.
At the end of the meal, the con- sensus was clear: Eradication never tasted so sweet.
eilperinj@washpost.com
Stephanie Gorenflo, 55, help with customer consultations. Dubbing themselves the Cuisinettes, they and Pollard have spent endless hours cooking together on Pol- lard’s Vulcan range, creating reci- pes for La Cuisine’s customers and for the store’s Web site (www.
lacuisineus.com) and experi- menting with techniques, ingredi- ents, equipment and culinary tra- ditions. After hours of cooking, the Cuisinettes sit down at Pol- lard’s table with assorted children and spouses to taste the fruits of their labors; Robert Pollard serves as sommelier. Nancy Pollard has an educated and adventurous palate. She mas- tered French cooking in her 20s, thanks to a friend who’d studied at Le Cordon Bleu. “I learned the classical sauces from her,” Pollard says. Another skilled cook inter- ested Pollard in Austro-Hungari- an cooking. Avendano, whose family comes from El Salvador, in- troduced her boss to Hispanic cu- linary traditions. When Pollard’s grown daughters, Natasha, a translator, and Anastasia, a paint- er, moved to Italy, Pollard studied regional Italian cooking, falling in love with pasta- and pizzamaking. (Anastasia now lives in London.) Pollard’s passion for cooking and her love of kitchen tools that do what they are designed to do make La Cuisine special, says Joe Raffa, chef at Washington’s Oya- mel, who teaches knife-skills classes at the store. “Nancy doesn’t tolerate equipment that doesn’t work,” he says. “You go into the store and buy a vegetable parer, and you know it works, be-
cause Nancy is using it in her kitchen. What Nancy sells is not the cheapest, but it is cost-effec- tive.” The observation that her store
is expensive is a common one. La Cuisine has only one major an- nual sale. Pollard favors goods from companies she knows well. Her most luxurious Mauviel res- taurant-weight copper saute pan with a stainless-steel lining costs $480. But Pollard says it will last “several lifetimes.” Her kitchen utensils also are top of the line. The product she calls her “line cook spatula,” made by Lamson & Goodnow, a small Massachusetts knife and kitchen tool company, costs $26. The Ca- puto Rosso pizza flour that Pol- lard discovered at a pizza joint in Naples arrives in 55-pound sacks, which she repackages in five- pound bags ($8). The Picholine olive oil from Provence costs $35 for 12.7 ounces. “Because the im- porter is so small, this is a product you would never find at the fancy- food shows,” she says. Not everything Pollard sells,
however, is handmade or pricey. She is a big fan of cast iron be- cause it promotes searing, and she sells pre-seasoned Lodge cast- iron pans for $28. She encourages customers to
save money by buying less. Sets of knives and pots and pans are not worth the money, she says. In her opinion, the average home cook needs only a high-quality paring knife, a chef’s knife and two or three pieces of cookware, starting with a saute pan. The loyalty that characterizes
WEDNESDAY, JULY 7, 2010
Pollard’s relationships with em- ployees and suppliers shapes her relationships with local restaura- teurs. David Gwathmey, 39, who owns the Grape + Bean coffee and wine bar a few blocks away, says proximity to La Cuisine was a fac- tor when he was deciding where to locate. Pollard says talented young entrepreneurs such as Gwathmey are infusing the Washington food scene with energy, passion and the highest standards. She says she’s gratified to see that young people in their 20s and 30s are so interested in food. “We are getting an influx of
younger people coming into the store who want good knives and other high-quality equipment,” she says. “They want to learn how to make fondant icing. They want tart pans with removable bot- toms. They read about food on- line. They are engaged, fun cli- ents. They come here and they want to learn about cooking. “I find myself inspired all over
again.”
food@washpost.com
Weissman is a journalist and author who writes about food and small business. Her most recent book is “God in a Cup: The Obsessive Quest for the Perfect Coffee” (Wiley, 2008).
on
washingtonpost.com On the shelves
Five hard-to-find items that La Cuisine stocks, at
www.washingtonpost.com/food.
Fresh Maryland Backfin Crab Meat .......................................... $
Select Oysters...............................$9.99lb Sword-Tuna ...................................$9.95lb Crab Cakes......................................$3.99ea
Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes .............................................$
Fresh Maryland Jumbo Lump Crabmeat ......................... $
12.99lb 8.99ea 22.99lb
Soft Shell platter ................ $ Tilapia platter................. $ Fried Shrimp platter ...... $ Catfish platter.................... $ Crab Cake platter........... $ Rainbow Trout platter.... $ Scallop platter.................... $ Broiled Chilean Sea Bass... $
CARRY OUT SPECIALS 7.99
5.99 5.99 6.99 6.99 7.99 8.99 9.99
All Platters served with 2 sides. Must bring this ad for special prices. Exp. 7/21/10
ROCKVILLE 251-1000 SILVER SPRING 585-5555 OXON HILL 749-7000 CAPITOL HEIGHTS 333-3000 MARLOW HEIGHTS 316-2000 PG PLAZA 891-9000 D.C. 202-388-3888 LAUREL 301-483-8555 BALTIMORE 410-466-4888 FREDERICK 301-695-9005
Crabs #1 MALES
Before 2PM Doz. Bush. Mon-Tues only
16 65
Wed-Thurs-Fri only 17 70 Sat-Sun
18 80 Mon-Tues only
#2 MALE and FEMALE MIXED 6
Before 2PM 35
Wed-Thurs-Fri only 740 Sat-Sun
8 45
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