Chilling Out
Wine Guru Tom Harrow recommends wines from the fridge, light, bright but this time not white
As we move into spring and the temperature rises, conversely we look forward to reds which are cooler and more refreshing than the heavier styles that have sustained us through the winter months. These lighter reds are also more versatile and can be paired with a wider and more eclectic array of dishes. They
are also particularly enjoyable when served from the fridge. Below are some of the more exciting recent additions to this increasingly popular style.
The Río Negro Valley between Chile and Argentina in the heart of Patagonia is home to one of the most exciting wineries in the world. Founded by Piero Incisa della Rocchetta (whose family are responsible for the most iconic Supertuscan - Sassicaia), Bodega Chacra produces amazing Pinot Noir from this most remote of regions, some 620 miles south of Buenos Aires and 1,240 miles north of Tierra del Fuego. The vineyards are between 20 and 85 years old and at 330m above sea level enjoy the cool nights that Pinot Noir requires to yield its best wines. There is plenty of soft red berry fruit and smoky cedar notes to the Barda, their estate wine, but all at barely 12% alcohol making it a perfect lunch time drop and ideal slightly chilled served with a soy and ginger brushed seared tuna steak.
Cabernet Franc is another grape that traditionally makes refreshing leafy wines not over-burdened by high alcohol, especially in its spiritual home in the Loire Valley. Bourgeuil, Saint Nicolas de Bourgeuil and across the river Chinon and especially these days Saumur and Champigny all turn out fine examples of the grape that recall the more gentle, digestible clarets of a former age where anything above 12.5% was considered dreadfully Antipodean. From the latter appellations, Domaine Guibertau and Domaine des Roches Neuves are leading the way, crafting racy, vivifying Cabernet Francs which, thanks to global warming, now have an added succulence and opulence. When cool to the touch these are great with simple salads and milder cheeses, at room temperature they have the chops to match richer, creamier white meat dishes.
Italy’s reds tend towards higher acidity – Nebbiolo in the north and Sangiovese in the centre being the
two most widely known grapes producing wines of quality. Valpolicella in the Veneto is often thought of as the Beaujolais of the country and indeed it does make straightforward, charming cherry-toned reds best enjoyed having been trailed behind the boat in the waters of Lake Garda. However another variety is worth a look – Dolcetto, the third grape of Piedmont, most famous for its powerful, at times impenetrable Barolo. Dolcetto, ‘little sweet one’, however as the names suggests has lower acidity and softer tannins which makes it suitable for a period in the fridge. A pizza wine par excellence, fine examples from the Dogliani region like Luigi Einaudi and Pecchenino are especially worth seeking out.
At the very least it will
quench your thirst better when turning steaks over on the grill
Blaufrankisch is southern Austria’s signature grape and is doing so well that in recent years the whole Burgenland region, where it’s grown predominantly, has undergone significant expansion and classification. With a distinctive white pepper note, and a palate of autumnal forest fruits and woodsmoke, the wines from this grape (known as Lemberger across the border in Germany) have a spicy, savoury component and intensity rather than density which makes them well matched to cold game dishes and smoked fish. I find them particular vivifying when served cooler than room temperature.
A curve ball to finish: Whilst the selections above would all struggle to show above 13% ABV, it is occasionally the case that higher alcohol wines can also perform well when chilled, especially those with a lot of sweet, jammy fruit and relatively smooth tannins like Amarone or Primitivo. Top quality Californian Zinfandel, packed with morello cherry fruit, liquorice and vanillin flavours is surprisingly more drinkable when it’s 14.5% is dampened by being served cold. Some would opine it brings the wine into better focus and adds some welcome structure. At the very least it will quench your thirst better when turning steaks over on the grill.
98 | SPRING 2017 | ONBOARD
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