MAYBE IT’S GLOBAL WARMING, BUT ENGLISH SPARKLING WINES HAVE BECOME BEAUTIFULLY BALANCED AND COMPLEX RECENTLY
Rhône etc. There have been more recent vintages equally as exciting, but key for the yachting industry is to have wines which are absolutely bang on ready to drink on this year’s holiday. “New Zealand too, people are starting to notice that there is much more than just the ubiquitous Kiwi Savvy Blanc: adventurous souls already applaud exciting Pinot Noir from NZ, but also vying for attention there are some downright heavenly Chardonnays, some with a definite ‘Burgundian’ feel; vibrant Rieslings and Pinot Gris, sultry Syrah and charismatic Cabernets.”
Jessica at Onshore reckons 2017 is likely to be a good one for Rosé, as ever, because the 2016 vintage was so warm and sunny in the south of France. She’s excited about the ‘sublime’ vintages of 2009 and 2010, across France, but especially in Bordeaux, that are now entering their drinking period at 7-8 years old, and will reward anyone who decides to splash out on them. She warns these wines can only continue to appreciate in price because the four subsequent vintages were not in the same league. She adds, “Champagne is entering a release-run of amazing vintages, too, with each year from 2006 to 2010 having distinct advantages and qualities, although English Sparkling wine is coming of age and the best beat lots of much more famous Champagne when tasted blind.” Andrew agrees with Helen that Bordeaux 2005 is drinking superbly at the moment as are Barolo and the Super Tuscans of 2006.
If owners like younger, bolder and more macho wines, the Tignanello has produced a fabulous 2013 vintage and he tips it as a top drinker in the next few years. “I expect the new kids on the block ‘Nyetimber English Sparkling wines’ to make quite a hit this year. They’ve already stacked up quite a few honours competing with some of the largest Champagne houses in France and I expect their popularity to keep growing. I’m not sure if it’s global warming, but English sparkling wines have become beautifully balanced and complex recently.”
It remains to be seen if the break-up of the Brangelina partnership will affect sales of their Rosé Miraval, but Andrew suspects it will. He advises the Burgundy Pinot Noirs of 2015 will be the next big hit which he thinks are undervalued but perhaps the fantastic 2015 red burgundy vintage now on release will raise their popularity.
For Corkers Kim Sheffield, 2003 was
the hottest vintage ever witnessed in Bordeaux. The best performing châteaux surpassed their outstanding 2000s and some claim to have made their greatest wines in living memory. He says that year the extreme heat of the summer presented winemakers with a stiff challenge. Sugar levels rose spectacularly in late summer with some producers jumping the gun and harvesting early to preserve acidity. However, growers who waited until their grapes were fully ripe have been rewarded with darkly coloured, rich concentrated
wines displaying astonishing depth of fruit and much complexity.
Generally speaking, the great wines of
2003 have come from the more northerly communes of the Médoc: and in particular, from Pauillac and St. Estèphe. Kim’s highlights include Lafite, Latour, Pichon Baron, Montrose and Cos d’Estournel. Quality was patchier in the southern Médoc vineyards although Château Margaux has produced one of the great wines of the 2003 vintage.He adds, “The Right Bank properties of St Emilion and Pomerol, where temperatures were even hotter, have produced uneven wines and volumes are massively reduced. Vieux Château Certan, which usually produces 4000 cases a year only produced 800 cases that year. Estates that bucked this pattern and produced outstanding wines include Figeac, Ausone, Fetyit Clinet and Angelus.”
Where’s new? For Hervé you really don’t have to venture too far to get excited about little known vineyards and favours staying local. He says the Domaine Gavaisson in Lorgues does very fine little white wines. He likes Clos Saint Vincent in Bellet (just above Nice) for their red and whites and Clos Saint Joseph (40 km North of Nice) has just released a young but fragrant 2015 red wine.
Master of Wine Louise at Riviera Wine regrets the somewhat blinkered approach to wine among the superyachties, who
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