THE US CHICAGO DESTINATIONS
often what makes Chicago’s celebrated architecture so special. The Chicago Architecture Foundation runs walking tours of the city, taking in the most impressive buildings. Many are obvious, but the tours go into the back stories and the decoration that can otherwise be missed. The two-hour historic skyscrapers tour ($20) is perhaps the most interesting, as it looks at the oldest (and most lavishly adorned) high rises, rather than the tallest.
architecture.org The absolute must-do, however, is the boat tour that passes along the Chicago River, taking in several of the big-hitters including the neo- gothic Tribune Building and the corn cob-esque Marina Towers ($44). The commentary is highly knowledgeable, and the views as the boat turns around the river bend are astonishing.
◗ STAY: HOTSPOTS The hot new address is Londonhouse; its prime riverside position and heritage building are key to the appeal, but there’s far more to it than luck of the draw. The hi-tech lift system – enter
the floor you want to go to before getting in, so the lifts can be allocated in the most time-effective manner – is a good example. The rooms are modern, with massive TVs, enviably soft sheets and marble-topped bedside tables. Shimmering silver curtains open to unveil outrageous views over the river. And the cherry on top? The rooftop bar with cocktail barmen who mean business. Doubles start at $139 in winter.
londonhousechicago.com Another joint with a remarkable
rooftop bar is the Chicago Athletic Association hotel. As the name suggests, it used to be a private sporting club frequented by the wealthy, and nods to the previous incarnation can be found throughout. Leather benches at the end of beds are styled like gym vaulting horses, robes are boxer-style and table legs are wrapped in the same tape as tennis racquets. It’s a lovely place to explore – with
a library area that may as well be a cathedral side chapel, and a games room that includes a bocce court, as well as foosball and pool tables –
BELOW:
Rooftop bar, Londonhouse
BELOW LEFT: Field Museum
BOTTOM LEFT: Jaume Plensa’s Crown Fountain
although the dim lighting may not be to everyone’s taste. Doubles start at $169.
chicagoathletichotel.com Other relatively recent openings include the first Virgin Hotel, which combines sass and thoughtful design. Rooms are spacious, with brightly lit mirrors and rugs adorned with images of London buses and Tube signs. They also feature kettles with Yorkshire tea, while the beds have seat-style backs, so you can sit comfortably on the bed without having to sprawl. Minibar items are charged at street prices and there are free drinks for guests in the Commons Club bar between 6pm and 7pm. Doubles (rooms, not drinks) cost from $131.
virginhotels.com At the more modest end of the scale (prices ramp up in summer), the Essex Inn at the southern end of the city centre is a little tired in places, but offers good value for money. It once had a pool, but that has been replaced by a rooftop garden with sunloungers. Another recent addition is the sauna. Prices start at $107.
essexinn.com
15 December 2016
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