MONM EAT
OUTHSHIRE
Get ready for Christmas
By Hannah Freeman T
here is always something magical in the air as Christmas approaches,
as the autumn gives way to frosty mornings and dark evenings. It is in November when our
household Christmas preparations begin. The pudding is always made on stir-up Sunday – the last Sunday before advent – packed full of rich dried fruits and fed with brandy, it rests wantonly in the larder maturing beautifully for the big day. In Monmouthshire we are blessed
with so many festive culinary choices, from free range turkey to wild venison, rare breed pork to Usk Valley beef, even meltingly tender wild boar. Indeed, a joint of wild boar makes a splendid centrepiece for the Christmas table, slow roasted and infused with a little juniper. I like to serve a bramble jelly alongside, as the sweetness counteracts the intense gaminess of the meat. Crunchy roast potatoes and some winter spiced braised red cabbage is all that is needed, save for the obligatory sprouts which although much disliked, are much called upon. In season: sprouts, swede, mussels, lamb, brassicas, apples, venison Why not try: Wye Valley Cheese from Lower Gockett Farm. Exceptional unpasturised cow and sheep’s cheese. It’s wonderful to see cheese making returning to Monmouthshire, and Wye Valley Cheese makes for excellent groundwork. Across between a cheddar and double Gloucester, their cow’s milk cheese is a versatile cheese ideal for the cheeseboard or cooking. Their sheep’s milk cheese is delicious with a dollop of black cherry jam, the French way. A range of smoked cheese also available. 01600 860984
www.wyevalleycheese.co.uk Why to visit: NS James, the Raglan butchers. A dream of a shop, full of local well-butchered meats, bacon and sausages as well as game and their now famous faggots. Established over fi fty years ago, NS James is a Raglan stalwart, their marvellous pies make a fantastic midweek supper alongside a pile of buttery mash.
www.nsjames.co.uk 01291 690675 Why not dine at: The Stonemill, Rockfi eld. With an excellent reputation and well composed Christmas menu, including delights such as a Three Bird Roast, truffl ed caulifl ower soup with smoked sea salt and a festive cranberry and walnut tart with candid orange ice-cream, The Stonemill is a character restaurant with an inventive menu combining classic dishes with contemporay twists.
www.thestonemill.co.uk 01600 716273
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Let’s eat…
Adam Whittle, chef at the White Hart Village Inn, Llangybi, near Usk, has shared three great dishes with us here at MCL. We hope you enjoy them...
Chocolate, coffee & milk
INGREDIENTS SERVES 4
138g dark chocolate 112g unsalted butter 200g caster sugar 2.5 eggs 100g plain flour 2.5g maldon sea salt
COFFEE JELLY 250g coffee 2 gelatine leaves
COFFEE
MARSHMALLOW 48g water 20g glucose 220 caster sugar 12g gelatine leaves 38g egg whites 3g instant coffee
MILK ICE CREAM 285g evaporated milk 140g double cream 1 strip of lemon peel 4 egg yolks
Quarter vanilla pod, split and scraped 60g caster sugar 1 tbsp liquid glucose
• Preheat oven to 150°C/ gas mark 2. In a Bain Marie, melt the butter, chocolate and sugar over simmering water. Meanwhile, in a separate bowl, whisk the eggs until they form stiff peaks. When the chocolate mixture is melted, carefully fold it into the eggs. Sieve the flour and fold it into the chocolate mix. Add the sea salt. Pour the batter into a grease proof paper- lined baking tray and bake for 20 minutes, or until the brownies are cooked so that they are set but still slightly soft in the middle. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.
• To make the coffee jelly Place gelatine leaves into
cold water and allow to bloom. Make sure coffee is at 45-50°C, add the gelatine to the coffee and stir to dissolve. Pour into a container and place into fridge to set.
• To make the coffee marshmallow - Place water, sugar and glucose onto a medium heat and take to 121°C. Meanwhile place gelatine into cold water to bloom. Just before the sugar reaches temperature place the egg whites into a kitchen aid bowl with a whisk attachment and start to whisk on full speed. As soon as 121°C is reached take off heat. Quickly squeeze the water out of the gelatine and add to the hot liquid along with the coffee, shake to dissolve. Slowly pour the hot liquid down the kitchen aid bowl into the whisking egg whites. After
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all the liquid has been added continue to whisk till the mixture has cooled. Place meringue into a piping bag and pipe into shapes on a baking mat. Leave to set.
• To make the milk ice cream - Combine the milk, cream, lemon peel and vanilla pod and place over a medium heat and warm to scalding. Whisk together egg yolks, sugar and glucose, then when the liquid is ready pour over egg mix slowly while whisking. Pour back into pan and cook over a low-medium heat until it reaches 78°C. Remove from heat and pass into a clean bowl set over ice and cool. Once chilled, churn in ice cream machine following manufacturers instructions and store in freezer.
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