Oban & Lorn
Easdale and Seil T
he islands of Easdale, Seil, Luing and Belnahua were once the centre of Scotland’s thriving slate mining indus-
try, a business that in its 19th century heyday claimed to be ‘roofi ng the world’. Though the distinctive shapes of the quarries remain, nature is gradually reclaiming much of the landscape, and local communities are fi nding creative ways to put the old facilities to good use sharing their heritage with visi- tors from around the world. Head south from Oban and you will see signs for the Atlantic Bridge, the distinc- tive gateway to these islands. The humped bridge spans the Clachan Sound, linking the Isle of Seil to the mainland, crossing all of about 20 metres of the ocean. Though to- day larger bridges such as the Skye Bridge cross parts of the Atlantic too, this one, built in 1793, was the fi rst. Next to the bridge on the Isle of Seil is the Tigh-an-truish Inn, an 18th century hostelry whose gaelic name translates to ‘house of the trousers’ after the period after the Jaco- bite rebellion when islanders heading for the mainland supposedly stopped there to swap their kilts – which were banned at the time
Sunset over Easdale and Ellenabeich Photo courtesy of Dennis Hardley
- for trousers. Follow signs from here to visit the neighbouring island, Luing. The infl uence of local slate is an integral fea- ture of the gardens of An Cala (open from April, 10am-6pm, 01852 300237) where visitors walk on slate footpaths to view the slate terraces, with colourful plants such as Japanese cherry trees and escallonia hedg- es sheltered behind a 15ft wall designed to keep out the Atlantic gales. Sealife Adventures (
www.sealife-adventures. com, departures from Clachan Seil) provides a comfortable, but close-up experience on board Britain’s most powerful wildlife charter boat, with tours to nearby islands and attrac- tions, and knowledgeable helping visitors spot local wildlife that can include whales, dolphins, puffi ns and even otters. For a cultural experience, visit Seil Studio, located between Clachan and Balvicar, to browse paintings, cards and prints featuring local sights. The former mining village of Ellenabeich is Seil’s biggest attraction, and now a conser- vation area with quaint white workers’ cot- tages framing the harbour. The distinctive slate harbour walls and restored crane in the
village square are reminders of more indus- trial times. Overlooking the square, one of the cottages has become the Slate Islands Heritage Cen- tre, a charitable venture run by volunteers to educate visitors about the area (
www.slateis-
lands.org.uk). It neighbours the family-run Oyster Bar and Restaurant with great views out to sea. Opposite is the quirky Highland Arts Exhibition, a gift shop and display of the works of poet and artist C. John Taylor. From Ellenebeich, Seafari (
www.seafari.
co.uk) offers exhilarating trips to the world’s third largest whirlpool in the Gulf of Corry- vreckan, on board Rigid Hulled Infl atable Boats, as well as the chance to see some of the area’s most remarkable wildlife. Tours to Colonsay, Staffa and Iona are also available. Take the three-minute open-air passenger ferry to the island of Easdale to journey still further into the slate industry’s past. Here, cars are not allowed, and colourful wheel- barrows lying outside the houses indicate the alternative methods locals use to trans- port their shopping from the boat. Though the island only has a handful of per- manent residents, it is internationally famous as the home of the World Stone Skimming Championships, which take place in a dis- used quarry every Autumn. Visit at any other time of year and you can still head to the beach to pick up a slate pebble and see how your throw compares (the rules measure distance, not number of bounces) or follow the footpath past seven disused quarries, now fi lled with water - then recover with a drink or snack in the Puffer bar and tea room, or visit the eclectic folk museum to learn about the Easdale’s history, and perhaps uncover the story of its ghostly island neighbour, Belnahua, which has been deserted since the First World War.
Getting there: Easdale and Seil are signed west about ten miles south of Oban on the A816
Links:
www.slateislands.org.uk www.stoneskimming.com
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