Mid Argyll Inveraray & Loch Fyne W
ith its quaint, photogenic buildings, Inveraray has been described as Ar- gyll’s ‘chocolate box’ town, but visit
in the summer and your visual experience is more likely to bring to mind a paintbox - so rich and varied are the colours on display. The famous bright white waterfront contrasts with the bluebells that carpet surround- ing woodlands, purple rhododendrons that decorate the approach roads, and beautifully kept gardens, ranging from the tiny, immacu- late fl ower beds outside many townhouses, to the expanses of azaleas at nearby Crarae and Ardkinglas estates. A vibrant settlement on the western shore of Loch Fyne, Inveraray is one of Scotland’s old- est planned towns, built mostly in its current form in the late 18th century to accommo- date the Duke of Argyll’s estate workers and a growing local herring industry. It has captured more than its share of imagi- nations, inspiring writers like local hero Neil Munro, who based his Para Handy seafaring tales here, novelist Iain Banks, and the pro- ducers of the TV show Downton Abbey, who chose Inveraray Castle as the setting for this year’s Christmas Special. Echoes of Inveraray’s murkier past have be- come part of its attraction. In the 1800s, In- veraray Jail housed the undesirables of Argyll society, from convicted killers to the insane, to children caught stealing apples, in damp, cramped cells bleakly positioned on the wa- ter’s edge. Today, the jail is a living museum (open 10am – 5pm, 01499 302381) where actors tell sto- ries of former inmates and visitors can try out punishments like the crank machine and whipping table. Only the cream on the deserts is whipped at the George Hotel, just around the corner, where you can recover after all that thought of crime and punishment and enjoy a pint, a cosy atmosphere and locally sourced cui- sine. Nearby Brambles Bistro and coffee shop also take pride in offering locally sourced treats, with home baking produced on site a high- light of the menu that also includes more substantial snacks and meals. For a spectacular location next to the loch, head to the historic Argyll Hotel, which has provided rooms with views to Inveraray visi- tors since 1750, as well as a range of refresh- ment choices for non residents, who can en- joy the scenic vistas from the conservatory. On the south side of Main Street, the town’s little Post Offi ce goes beyond the traditional service, and offers calendars, postcards, and
more Argyll-themed gifts and craft. Inveraray Castle (open from April 10am – 5.45pm, 01499 302203, the home of Clan Campbell and the current Duke of Argyll had already seen its fair share of drama, includ- ing two devastating fi res and a royal battle, before the ITV crew came calling. Today, its armoury hall houses an impressive collection of weapons. Perched on a hilltop high above Loch Fyne and visible, if only as a beguiling silhouette, from most directions, the Dun na Cuaiche watchtower is the stone guardian of Invera- ray. The 18th century viewpoint may appear mysterious and inaccessible from below, but in fact, it is a relatively short, steep walk from Inverary Castle car park, and once reached provides an aerial outline of the highlights of the Fyne Valley - town, castle, bell tower and loch can all be seen from the shelter. The fi shing industry the town was founded on is well remembered on its pier, at Inveraray Maritime Museum (on board the Arctic Pen- guin schooner) and the Vital Spark, a puffer named after the boat in the Para Handy sto- ries and used in the fi lming of the series, and there is more living history a few miles south at Auchindrain, a farming township that has been carefully preserved. If the history lessons have left you wanting to take a piece of Scottish heritage home, head to Redshanks. As well as designing and cre- ating kilts for the stars of stage and screen, they offer a bespoke service and can source
your family tartan, or design one and make a kilt from it just for you. Head north-east from Inveraray town and you reach the tiny hamlet of Cairndow, an unexpected lochside gem that is home to the Fyne Ales brewery, the Tree Shop Garden Centre and coffee shop, and the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar and Farm Shop. The oyster bar was the fi rst of the now celebrated national chain, and started out as a seafood shack. It has just celebrated its 25th anniversary, with events to mark the occasion planned throughout 2013. At the very tip of Loch Fyne is Ardkinglas, the stately home and estate that includes Ardkin- glass Woodland Garden, home to a remark- able collection of plants and ‘champion’ trees including the tallest, and some of the oldest trees in Britain – fl ourishing still thanks to careful management and a sheltered position on the banks of this beautiful loch.
Getting there: From Glasgow take the A82 to- wards Crianlarich, then at Arrochar take the A83 towards Campbel- town. Citylink coaches to Invera- ray leave Buchanan bus station in Glasgow (six daily, 1hr 45).
Links:
www.inveraray-argyll.com
Inveraray
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