Island Hopping A dram for a dream Islay & Jura
Looking across the Sound of Jura to the Isle of Jura
A
n outpost that is home to less than four thousand people, Islay is known and highly regarded around the world.
Dubbed ‘the Queen of the Hebrides,’ this island is the fl agship of Scotland’s booming whisky trade, and many would say deserves royal status for that achievement alone – though it has much more to offer. The gentlest and most southerly of the Inner Hebrides, Islay is covered largely in peat, a vital component in the production of its single malts. It has eight working distilleries and the journey between them doubles as a discov- ery route of its highlights – from the towns of Port Ellen and Bowmore, to Caol Ila, with views across to Jura, and the sandy Machir Bay, near Kilchoman. It is worth looking upwards and out to sea as well as into your glass, because there is as much variety to Islay’s wildlife as to its malts. It boasts over 250 species of bird, including the rare blackbird-like chough, and it is an important wintering ground for barnacle and white-fronted geese, especially at the RSPB’s Loch Gruinart Reserve. Though you will encounter wildlife wherever you go, you can learn more and improve your chances of a special sighting on an organ- ised tour, such as those recently launched by Islay Sea Adventures, which offer visitors the chance to gain a new perspective and expe- rience this remarkable island from sea level. There is much to pack in during an Islay visit, and your experience will refl ect the method of travel you choose. For comfort and con- venience, D&N MacKenzie are Islay’s car hire providers (
www.carhireonislay.co.uk) while
Islay cycles (
www.islaycycles.co.uk) hire bikes for the sensation of the Hebridean wind in your hair and satisfaction at the end of a good day’s pedalling. A trip from Port Ellen to the Oa, the island’s southerly tip, is a chance to experience sce- nic highlights including the intriguing square Carraig Fhada lighthouse and the American Monument, erected in memory of the soldiers on board two American ships which were wrecked in 1918 on the hazardous stretch of coast the site overlooks. Finlaggan, on a secluded loch in the north- east of Islay, was once the seat of the Lord of the Isles and centre of power for an entire territory. It’s hard to envisage, but from the 13th century rulers made this remote spot their base – its position at the heart of the Hebrides perfect for leaders who ruled and conquered by sea. Portnahaven, at the quiet eastern tip of the island, is a pretty village and a great place to watch grey seals that gather on the beach. Locals and visitors are served by Portna- haven Stores. A trip to Islay is a remarkable holiday, and re- markable accommodation will enhance the experience further. Lochside Hotel (www.
lochsidehotel.co.uk) offers stunning views of Loch Indaal in Bowmore, a well-stocked whisky bar, and a restaurant that serves fresh local produce. For something different, try ‘glamping’ in a fi bre glass shelled ‘storm- pod’ in Lagavulin Bay – for more information see
www.storm-pods.co.uk. Nearby Jura’s place on the cultural land- scape of the West Highlands was assured
in 1946 when George Orwell (then Eric Blair) sought solitude there to write his novel 1984. The island is named from the Norse for ‘deer island’, and you are as likely to encounter a stag there as another person. Considering its sparse population, Jura has more than its fair share of folk tales, many of them centred on the three Paps that domi- nate the skyline, and the Corryvreckan whirl- pool, a swirling mass of water in its northern gulf. Sat between Jura and Islay, little Colonsay and its sibling Oronsay have their own gems for the visitor, including the woodland garden at Colonsay House and an ancient priory on Oronsay. There are no Munros here for walk- ers to climb, but they can ‘bag’ one of the 22 smaller MacPhies instead.
Getting there: For Islay, there are fl ights from Glasgow and ferries from Kennac- raig on Kintyre, to Port Ellen (or Port Askaig while work is taking place this summer). There is no direct car ferry to Jura, but it can be reached from Port Askaig on Islay.
Links:
www.islayinfo.com www.jurainfo.com
Did you know? The recent BBC Series Hebrides featured a family of swallows who had made their home in Islay’s Ard- beg distillery.
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