Mid Argyll
Melfort,
Arduaine, Ardfern
and Craobh A
rgyll is at its greenest as you head south from Oban, past roadside lochs and dry stone walls through a collection of some of the west coast’s most charming villages and set-
tlements. There are seaside adventures on offer here for walkers and cy- clists of all abilities, and nature-lovers should keep a keen eye out for the seals, osprey and eagles that can be sighted along the coast. Kilmelford and Melfort With a pretty 18th century church, cafe and old coaching inn, Kilmelford is an apt fi rst stop on a tour of the Degnish peninsula. Turn off the beaten track along the windy road beside Loch Mel- fort to escape further, reaching Melfort Village, a hamlet of self- catering holiday cottages which once housed the Melfort Gun- powder Works, and Melfort Pier, where visitor accommodation overlooks the water. With a collection of sailing boats and geese and swans bobbing off the shore, the settlement today has a peaceful atmosphere which betrays little hint of its explosive history, but the small stone pier from which ammunition was once shipped remains an at- tractive feature. There is ancient history to be uncovered at Melfort too. The ‘hill of the fairies’ above the village, houses a cave where fl int and quartz artefacts thought to have been left by hunter-gatherers from as early as 5000 BC, were discovered (and sadly damaged) following blasting works in the 1950s. The sheltered location and rich soil in this area is an attraction for horticulturalists and visitors will pass many beautiful, well-
cared-for private gardens, though the most striking displays can be found at Arduaine Gardens (0844 4932216) managed by the National Trust . A spring visit to the gardens will be a chance to see the early rho- dodendrons and magnolias for which the garden is famed, and if the weather’s good, a stroll to the cliff-top viewpoint, which looks out to Jura, is recommended. For a bracing walk with a quirky sight at its fi nish, head up Beinn Chaorach, on the south shore of Loch Melfort, to a trig point at the summit obscured by a red phone box lifted over the top – an unusual photo opportunity in an otherwise striking and isolated spot. Ardfern and Craobh Haven This stretch of coastline is a popular destination for yachting and water sports enthusiasts who fi nd a base in the marinas of Ard- fern and Craobh Haven. On opposite sides of the peninsula, the villages are good starting points for exploration on foot, on horseback or by sea, with a variety of tours on offer locally for those who seek a well-informed guide. With pubs, cafes, restaurants and accommodation options close by, there are ample opportunities to sample Argyll hospitality as well. Craobh Haven’s marina is sheltered by a handful of small islands joined by a causeway, the route around which makes for a pleas- ant walk, with views to the local islands of Shuna, Seil and Lu- ing. Ardfern, at the head of Loch Craignish, is busier, and well- equipped for those in need of essentials, with its own shop and post offi ce.
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