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BY THE SEA


View from the smokery JESSE PATTISSON, OF SOMERSET-BASED


SMOKERY BROWN & FORREST The time of year and the weather never fail to make me think of specific meals that one ought to be enjoying to either enhance the season, or to bolster and protect one against whatever brutal weather is being thrown at you. Kedgeree is one such dish and in my mind is perfect to cheer one up during dank cold and wet weather. A delicious and yet simple meal perfect for entertaining large numbers and yet equally at home feeding just one. I have included the recipe that we use in the restaurant here at the Smokery it is hugely popular and is almost a constant at this time of year. We use smoked Arctic Char, Hot smoked salmon and Haddock but you can of course use whatever takes your fancy. We Recently went on a Mammoth long family walk with some friends and as all the children are currently obsessed with the Lion the Witch and the Wardrobe the whole walk was based on finding clues in order to defeat the White Witch !? To say it was boggy underfoot would be an understatement and trying to get the children to remain upright and not face down in the mud was a challenge. It was actually Fiona one of the mums who, in trying to sheppard one of her crew to safety, got both wellies stuck and in super slow motion landed on her bottom in the freezing cold mud bath. With a good mile still to walk and the constant laughter of the rest of us to put up with, I knew then that Kedgeree would be the perfect supper. It may not dry your pants out or indeed prevent your husband and children having hysterical laughter every time your folly is mentioned, but it does warm you to your bones and definitely cheers you up. Give it a try and enjoy.


FISH PIE Once you’ve perfected a potato-topped fish pie, you can vary it to your taste, with different fish – fresh, smoked, or canned – and flavourings.


Serves 6


 625g (1lb 6oz) potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks


 Salt and freshly ground black pepper


 1 litre (13 milk


/4


 150g (51 greasing


/2 pints), plus 4 tbsp hot oz) butter, plus extra for


 10 black peppercorns  2 bay leaves  1 small onion, quartered  750g (1lb 10oz) skinned haddock fillets, cut across into pieces


 60g (2oz) plain flour  5-7 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked and chopped


18 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER


 125g (4 1 prawns


/2


oz) cooked, peeled


 3 eggs, hard-boiled and coarsely chopped


1 Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water for 15–20 minutes or until tender. Drain thoroughly, then mash with the 4tbsp hot milk, 60g (2oz) butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.


2 Pour the remaining milk into a large saucepan and add the peppercorns, bay leaves, and onion. Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat. Cover and leave in a warm place to infuse for about 10 minutes.


3 Add the fish to the milk, cover, and simmer for 5–10 minutes or until it flakes easily when tested with a fork. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the fish to a plate; reserve the cooking liquid. Cool, then flake the fish.


4 Melt the remaining butter in a


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