year, some for financial gain and others for personal food. With only one bailiff to cover four rivers in the South Hams the control of poaching is very patchy. Angling and Commercial Fishing. David freely admits that one of the joys of fishing is the chance of catching a wonderful meal. But he argues that fisherman, more than anyone else, are keen to see stocks of fish in the river at healthy and sustainable levels. The Dart Angling Association lobby the Environment Agency over pollution issues and work with DEFRA on issues of stock management, including restocking the rivers with young fish from elsewhere. They have worked with landowners, commercial netters, marinas and their own membership to put into place measure which will help to conserve the environment. They also have a strict limit on membership and rules regarding releasing a large proportion of any fish they catch. They have been instrumental in putting in place many measures designed to conserve the river and its fish stocks. Predation: it’s a dangerous place in the river for salmon and trout whether large or small. Seals, otters, cormorants, predatory fish, goosanders, heron and egret all revel in a meal of fresh fish. And that’s before they get out to sea. Any individual fish spawning in the river has a fairly limited chance of
SEA TROUT CEVICHE Serves 4.
If you are confident of the quality and freshness of your fish then ceviche is a great recipe. The fish is ‘cooked’ using a little lemon juice. The ascetic acid breaks down the protein as heat would do but in a very delicate way, allowing you to taste the fish in a pure state.
• 200g fish fillet cut into cubes no bigger than 1cm.
• Juice of a lemon
For the dressing: • 2 tbsp olive oil
• ½ tbsp white balsamic vinegar (or white wine vinegar)
• ½ tsp Dijon mustard • Zest of half a lemon finely chopped or grated • ½ tsp sugar • Salt and pepper
1
. Toss the fish in the lemon juice and leave for 10–15 minutes.
2 3 4
5 . Drain the lemon juice off.
. Arrange the fish on top of a simple salad. (I used red peppers and finely sliced onion)
. Whisk the dressing ingredients together to make a sweet, lemony dressing. The sweetness is to counter the sharpness of the lemon juice which is why I recom- mend white balsamic vinegar if you have it.
. Spoon the dressing over the fish and salad but not so much that it overwhelms the ceviche.
more recipes on next page 27
surviving to come back and spawn itself. Some rivers are seeing reversals in the fortunes of their trout and salmon levels and the Dart, with the help of David Pakes, the Dart Angling Association and the many other interested parties may yet do the same for the Dart. In the meantime you are unlikely to find much River Dart Trout or Salmon for sale or on a restaurant menu. If you do you should really make the most of it and appreciate what a rare treat it is.
I picked up a sea trout form Mark Lobb, though this one had been caught in Wales (where it is known as Sewin). I wanted to really make the most of it so I used the one fish to produce three recipes. All of the following recipes can be used for other fish and would work very well with farmed rainbow trout or salmon.
Dart Angling Association -
http://www.dartaa.org.uk/ 01626 872434
Manna from Devon 01803 752943
www.mannafromdevon. com
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