British El Progreso Mining Company in 1878. At one point, the town’s population grew to 10,000, making it the largest community in southern Baja. The town was the first in Baja to install electricity and telephones, and its cultural life included regular concerts and two competing weekly newspapers. Parts of the old mine installations can still be seen, including two massive chimney stacks - “Ramona” (designed by famous French engineer Gustave Eiffel), and “Julia”, which stands near a graveyard of rusting and forgotten mining equipment. The fascinating array of rusting equipment looks as if it lay right where it was dropped when the people of El Triunfo left. The tools and gear were originally made in Chicago and San Francisco, and shipped in to be used at the mines sometime before the area was deserted in the mid1920's.
Many RVers who travel to Baja Mexico often pass by El Triunfo, former mining town nestled in the Sierra de la Laguna on Mex 1. It is a small unassuming town, about 4 blocks long, with a population of about 800. In many ways the place has the feel of a turn of the century movie set, complete with heritage building facades, a two-tone church, cobblestone streets and old smoke stacks. Many snowbirds often drive through as they head north to La Paz, or south to San Jose Del Cabo. The town straddles Highway 1, and has made impressive strides in the past few years with the addition of an excellent bakery and restaurant, and a unique music museum that features a concert pianist and locally made baskets.
El Triunfo started as a cattle ranch in the early Jesuit period. Although silver was first discovered in the area in 1748, El Triunfo’s claim to fame began with the silver and gold rush of the 1860s, and was consolidated with the arrival of the
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There's lots of curb to pull off the highway for any size of rig. Just follow the “Pizza” sign and before you know it you will be in the bakery. The sourdough loaves are oven fired and delicious (particularly the cranberry walnut), but don’t stop there! Carry on through the storefront to the restaurant and outdoor patio which offers a great view of the mountains, brick bridge
and smelter ruins. Go out back and stroll through the abandoned smelter, imagining what it must have been like 100 years ago. The church itself is also well-worth the visit, as is the local craft shop where you can purchase many locally made handiworks.
A visit to El Triunfo is not complete without paying a visit to the music museum. Once inside, you are greeted by Maestro Nicolas Carrillo Castro, who personally conducts the tour of the museum. If you are truly fortunate, Sr. Castro will "tickle" the ivories for you. His flamboyant style will whisper of a Mexican Liberace.
As the largest city on Baja in the 1860's, pianos were brought to El Triunfo from around the world. At one time, El Triunfo had more pianos per capita than any other city in Mexico! Sitting in the audience as the Maestro played Beethoven and Bach on the Baldwin grand piano was truly an unforgettable experience!
We have now put El Triunfo on our Tour, and the reviews have been great; it has become a must stop!
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www.rvsnowbirds.com | August/September
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