Above: Use a square to assure yourself the walls really do meet at exactly 90 degrees.
Above right: Side wall bracing should be flush. Eyeball it hard, so it is as exact as you can make it.
Right: If the roof trim is to be the same color, as on this particular model, add it prior to painting. If it is to be a con- trasting color, cut to exact size and paint it separately.
assembled, laid nice and flat, so no over- spray gets to the outside of the structure. While that paint was drying, I cut out two roof sections, making the overhang about a foot or so in all three directions (both ends and one side). I used Oregon Rail Supply shingles, which took only 35 min- utes to apply. Since they were light gray, I blasted them with a rattle can of SP gray
Below: A good way to gang-paint doors and win- dows is to hold them with a strip of double-sided masking tape taped down to a scrap of lumber.
(yep, another four minutes). I used a square to assure the walls
were at a nice 90 degrees to one another and made two side/end assemblies, and then mated the two into the basic build- ing. I was careful here to get everything nice and square, so the roof would not look cattywampus when applied. That whole assembly process took 11 min- utes to accomplish. I used Tenax 7R here. When I had everything nice and snug and squared off, I wanted the bond to grab right now, and Tenax is basically
instant. Make darn sure you have every- thing right on the money before you ap- ply it, or you’ll be sorry. Ask me how I know. Here we are, three hours in, and I have the four walls all assembled and the roof finished.
I attached the doors and windows to some face-up masking tape, and then airbrushed the windows, doors, build- ing, and underside of the roof halves with the same brownish gray (as close as I could come to old gray wood). Set- up, painting, and cleanup took only 12
84 RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN
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