DESTINATIONS — CRUISE
Mekong magic
APT shows Hollie-Rae Merrick the very best of Indochina
S
tanding at the back of APT’s river vessel La Marguerite,
I felt rather like a meerkat: on tiptoe, turning my head from side to side like a spectator at Wimbledon, trying to take in as much of the action as possible. At its widest point, the Mekong is almost double the width of the Thames, and locals use this mighty river to transport everything from trees to motorbikes.
l ON BOARD La Marguerite, named after a French writer who lived in one of the ports of call in Vietnam, is APT’s premium vessel on the Mekong, operating sailings that either begin or end near Ho Chi Minh City. (The Australian touring and river cruise operator also offers similar itineraries on luxury ship AmaLotus.)
Joining the ship in Kampong Chhnang in Cambodia I fell in love with the typically Indochinese dark wooden decor of the ship that runs through the dining room to the bar and the staterooms. The ship was half full when we
sailed, but when full it can carry up to 92 passengers across standard rooms (with porthole windows), balcony cabins, junior suites, and two more superior suites, all of which are outside. The size of the ship is part of its appeal – it never feels noisy or crowded, making it ideal when sailing through remote parts of Cambodia and Vietnam. The ship has two bars, the Saigon Lounge and a pool bar, and one restaurant, the Mekong restaurant, but this is definitely a case of quality over quantity. The restaurant offers a buffet breakfast, and at lunch it is part buffet and part served lunch, with a menu for main courses. Dinner is when the chefs come into their own, with a selection of starters, mains and desserts reflecting the cuisine of the country you’re currently sailing in, but on top of that there are western and vegetarian options.
The ship also has a spa and
a library where, along with the Saigon Lounge, Wi-Fi is available throughout the sailing, although the strength of the signal can vary. Evening entertainment is
minimal and low-key; local performers joined the ship on one of the evenings and staff hosted a dance on another. But part of the fun on river ships is the chance to get to know your fellow cruisers and share experiences, which led to me hosting both an impromptu pub quiz and a karaoke session – both big hits, if I say so myself!
l TIME TO EXPLORE During the day passengers are left to their own devices, and it’s your decision whether you join the twice-daily guided tours, stay on board and relax, or get off the ship and explore independently. The tours provide the chance to not only see but also experience the local way of life. In Cambodia, activities included taking a tuk-tuk ride, visiting silk-weavers and a local primary school, getting a Buddhist blessing in a remote village along the Mekong and paying respects to the countless victims of the Khmer Rouge at the Killing Fields memorial near Phnom Penh. In Vietnam
the excursions include a rickshaw ride through Tan Chau, a visit to a floating market in the Mekong Delta and a trip to Cai Be, a town crammed full of colonial buildings and French influence. The option to choose between the escorted tours and exploring independently means it’s easy to strike your own balance. We opted for tours in more remote areas, but explored the big cities by ourselves, often heading to off-the-beaten-track bars and restaurants recommended by the La Marguerite crew.
9 October 2014 —
travelweekly.co.uk • 59
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