The tail section showing paint lines, numbers and lettering (above left). The wheel pants (above right) are made from 1⁄8-inch ply and attach to the main gear wire with nylon gear clips. The two-piece cowl (below left) is made from
1⁄2-inch balsa carved to shape. The .40 engine turns a 10x6 prop with a 11⁄2-inch diameter spinner. The underside of the model (below right) showing the color scheme and the flat bottom wing shape.
Finishing and final assembly Apply a coat of sanding sealer to all the balsa parts of the model and sand smooth. Give the cardboard sections two coats of clear dope, sanding lightly after each coat with 400-grit sandpaper. Then follow with two coats of color. The color scheme I used for my model is beige overall with orange upper fuselage and wing and horizontal stabilizer leading edges. The windows are simulated with aluminum MonoKote out- lined with black. The logos and letters are black MonoKote.
Pass the leadout wires through the wingtip line guide and tie off. Attach the ny- lon control horn to the elevator and hook up the pushrod. Attach the wheels, then add the prop and spinner to the engine and your ship will be completed. Be sure to balance the model at the point shown on the plans. If you have any comments, suggestions or questions concerning the cardboard Mini- cab, please write to me at 825 Lake Park Drive, Lakehills, TX 78063. Or e-mail me, maybe with a photo of your completed card- board model, at
charlesfelton@earthlink.net. Feel free to also visit my website at
www.feltondesignanddata.com to see more cardboard model designs as well as more building techniques.
FLYING MODELS
Yves Gardan's Minicab has very pleasing lines, despite sporting a wide fuselage with side-by-side seating. This delightful design could also be converted to radio control with very little effort.
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