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ANOTHER TILE IN THE MOSAIC that is North American rail dining in the Golden Age — the 13th railroad-specific cookbook — has been affixed to the mural. E. Gordon Mooneyhan, a self-proclaimed “lifelong rail- road enthusiast” and “accomplished ama- teur chef” has just released a new cookbook, The Southern Railway Dining Car Cook- book: A Historical Perspective. “How,” you ask, “can that be? Isn’t it true that the Southern never had a food service manual?” Gordon’s answer to that query is as inter- esting as the book itself: “It’s true. The Southern never really had a ‘cookbook.’ Recipes were stored in folders in the din- ing cars and, as new recipes were added, mimeographed sheets would be sent out and added to the collection in each car.”


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Carolina, Chapter of the National Railway Historical Society. The Chapter had an ex-Southern Railway dining car and a recipe file came with it. That original copy was a bad Xerox of a lousy mimeograph, extremely hard to read. I brought it home from one of our meet- ings and retyped it. I published


that in


1990.” “With the advent of the internet it became


much easier to research archives and li- braries, so I was able to add to the collection. I found some recipes in libraries and others in collections throughout the area served by the Southern. Still others appeared in news- papers like the Atlanta Constitution.” Mooneyhan also added historical infor- mation and context to the book, which is a revised and expanded version of that earlier edition. For example, after presenting the recipe for Green Pea Soup, he notes, about the call to use Lipton’s Green Pea Soup Mix, that the recipe had been revised on March 12, 1957. “The railroad,” he reports, “was al- ready aware of rising costs and, if canned product was of suitable quality, it would be used as opposed to cooking from scratch.” Elsewhere he explains what “streak-o-lean bacon” is (it is called for as an accompani- ment for eggs).


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When asked which recipe is his favorite, he is quick to reply. I’ll let the recipe speak for itself: Fried Chicken Southern Style,


Cream Gravy: Singe, wash and split in half. Then unjoint. Do not chop. Season with salt and pepper. Roll in flour, fry chicken


slowly in lard until of golden color. Chicken must be kept covered while frying. Remove and keep hot. To serve, cover bottom of medi- um platter with gravy and lay the chicken in gravy. Frill on legbone. Garnish with pars- ley. Breakfast plate for service. Table d’hote: serve on hot dinner plate. Cream Gravy: Make a cream gravy, adding sufficient flour to the grease chicken was fried in, stirring until it get thick. Then add milk, stirring continually to keep from lumping. Season by adding salt. Gordon does add an updated version of the


fried chicken to comply with today’s desire by some for a healthier diet:


Use skinless


chicken breasts. Wash, season with salt (or substitute) and pep- per, then roll in flour. Fry chicken slowly in olive oil, until done. Drain most of the oil from frying pan. Make the gravy as above, substituting two per cent milk for whole milk. Serve as above. Now, one can’t quib- ble with the selection of


Southern Fried


Chicken as a favorite on a Southern rail- road. But I confess I was drawn to the Chicken Shortcake, Southern Style, which features boiled chick- en, diced, added to a rich,


made of a blonde roux, chicken broth,


smooth sauce and


sliced mushrooms,


then ladled over the bottom and upper halves of a split piece of 2½″×4″ cornbread. You can tinker further here, as the dining car chefs did, by adding diced cooked ham to the sauce. Other regional specialties include Baked Sugar-cured Ham with Cider Sauce, Southern Roast Beef Hash, or Ribs with the Southern’s own Barbecue Sauce. On the side? Fried Sweet Potatoes, Blackeyed Peas, and Fresh Stewed Corn. For dessert? Peach Cobbler, Pecan Pie, Kentucky Bourbon Chocolate Pecan Pie, or Bread and Butter Raisin Pudding with Vanilla Sauce. And for the holidays, try the Yule Log. The Southern Railway Dining Car Cook-


book is available at amazon.com or direct from the author for $10.95 (plus $2.00 shipping) by sending a check to Gordon Mooneyhan, P.O. Box 2328, Myrtle Beach, SC 29578-2328. If you would like a “to the best of my knowledge” bibliography of all 22 railroad cookbooks published — both in and out of print, as well as currently available replica dining car china, and related books and DVD’s, you can send me an e-mail at jamesdporterfield@mac.com, or send a self- addressed stamped envelope to P. O. Box 3041, Elkins, WV 26241.


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