C/LStunt C
harlie Reeves and I had put five trim flights on the Oriental during a late summer lapse in Stunt con- tests. The leadouts now seem to be in the correct location (that must be 3 de- grees aft of the center of gravity set on the fuselage). The lead-outs should be located just that amount aft of the c.g. The tank now gives me the same lap time right side up and inverted, but you must do more inside and outside loops and listen to the engine as it powers through the two maneuvers. When the loops sound the same and the loop sizes are equal, you are at home plate rather than just somewhere in the ballpark. The wing tip weight is sufficient to allow flat bottom turns after tight corners, whether they are inside squares or outside squares. Too much wing tip weight will al- low the wing tip to drop when executing the bottom of the square or triangle maneuvers. Too little weight in the tip box will cause the outer wing tip to fly up during the final cor- ner at the five-foot bottom height. The wing also flies level to the lines at inverted and upright positions. This can be accomplished by tweaking the flaps with the tools men- tioned later in this text.
The field trials so far include 4.25 ounces of 10% nitro, 25% castor oil, and 3% synthet- ic combination fuel. Mark Smith of Excal- ibur Fuels mixes this for Fox type engines and includes the 3% synthetic oil to help clean the varnish off the cylinder and piston fit. I use the APC 10.5–4.5 composite pro- peller with a release at about 9,900 to 10,100 rpm on 57-foot lines measured eyelet to eye- let. This will give me about 5.0- to 5.2-second lap times, depending upon temperature and humidity.
My five test flights, so far, have given me ample proof of the future success of this com- bination. I would have liked a 40-ounce mod- el instead of a 43.8-ounce Oriental, but my
by allen brickhaus You can reach Allen Brickhausat PO Box 206, Golconda, Illinois 62938, or via e-mail at
abkb801@shawneelink.net
building and painting combination gave me these final figures. The amount of fuel used and the engine release settings have been giving me a full flight time of about six min- utes and thirty seconds. Your times will vary with the fuel used, your prop, your line length, and your release rpm. I utilize a uni- flo tank and no muffler pressure. Using muf- fler pressure will allow you to go up on the rpm and allow you slightly more flight time. The Oriental will probably be tucked away in the back of my van on the trip to the VSC this year, as the Olympus will serve as my main Classic/Nostalgia 30 model until the Oriental has more trim and practice time. Many model pilots have alluded to the theory that the Oriental is appropriate to fulfill the “shoes” of the venerable Nobler. The longer span on the Oriental gives the constant chord wing a higher aspect ratio, making the wing as effective as the Nobler. I suppose we are looking at a better “airfoiled” Chief wing in the Oriental.
To the novice builder, the straight or con- stant chord wing is easier to build and trim. You do not have to worry about the double taper of the Nobler styled wing while in the construction phase of the Oriental build. If you do not plan to fly the Oriental in Classic or Nostalgia 30, you could utilize a fixed 2- inch portion of the inboard flap and a 2-inch trim tab located at the end of the outboard flap like modern Stunters. You have the choice of a complete kit, an ARF, or an ARC to finalize your own version. You could also purchase plans of the Oriental from Brodak Manufacturing (100 Park Avenue, Carmichaels, PA 15320;
www.brodak.com or call 724-966-2726) and build one from your own personal stock of light and straight wood.
Another engine break-in bench I passed on a shot last month of an engine
test stand using a concrete block for the base and the engine mount bolted to the block. This month I am noting my own wooden en- gine test stand assembly, but using Charlie Reeves’ idea as the basis. The wood portions are 2 × 12 inches, times a length of needed material. My lengths are about 18 inches each. Note that the height of the platform is around 14 inches and has plenty of prop clearance that any Stunt pilot would need. As you can see, the wood has some fuel staining even with the polyurethane top coat brushed on the surface. I clean the base each time I use it, but some fuel will soak into the wood pores.
New tank mount for the TEOSAWKI
At the Fellowship of Christian Modelers’ contest run by Allen Goff, I found a problem with the tank connection on my TEOSAWKI. The metal mounts soldered to the tank came loose and fell off the model. The problem was not the metal mounts, but my soldering work. I then decided to go back to my more familiar method of mounting a tank to a pro- file body. My method employs a piece of air- craft grade 1⁄8-inch plywood cut to the height of the tank and about 7⁄8 inch longer than the metal tank used on your model. In my case this will be for the TEOSAWKI. Please understand that the metal tabs are great; I just did not attach them proper- ly with the correct amount of cleaning, heat, or products used. A vertical slot is cut on the front portion of the new plywood piece and another at the aft end of the tank mount. I add a piece of 1⁄8 × 1⁄8 × the height of the tank to the most aft end of the tank mount. You can see this in the picture of the two tanks with the metal attachments and my new wooden one. Having the rear end of the tank mount held away from the fuselage side allows the tank to empty better and al-
PHOTOGRAPHY: ALLEN BRICKHAUS
Here is the Oriental on Byron Barker’s C.F. Slattery paint stand (above left). Contact Byron at 812-948-9167 during the day or 812-944-8511 for more information on prices and shipping of this great tool to make the painting process
48
a lot easier to accomplish. Now the Orientalis covered in the Rustoleum yellow paint (above right) and the C.F. Slattery paint stand makes it much easier to get it done.
APRIL 2013
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