Hangar 9 PA-18 Super Cub
After some trial and error, the best procedure to set up the flap servo and pushrod (above left) was to hook up the servo arm and trial fit it to the servo, then adjust as needed. Took a bit of time. Color coding the flap and aileron connectors
(above right) helped to easily identify them. Scissors trimmed the major flash of the top aileron pushrod fairings (below left) before finishing with a sanding stick. Best position for the fairing (below right) was 30 mm from the trailing edge.
Setting up control horns accurately is one of those tasks that makes me cringe. About the only other thing to remark about the wing setup is the phony aileron pushrod on the top of the wing. At first it mystified me until I realized that the real Super Cub has an aileron pushrod arrange- ment top and bottom. The top one is purely cosmetic and doesn’t connect to anything. Next major assembly section is the land-
ing gear. This was a lot of fun since the Hangar 9 ¹⁄₄-scale Super Cub imitates the real Cubs with a functional shock absorbing bungee landing gear. The hardware used to
assemble the gear was great. Everything fit precisely and the quality of the parts was outstanding.
Instead of the shock cords used on the real planes rubber bands are used on the model. The rubber bands are wrapped around two bolts four times and there is a tendency for one or two wraps to slip off. Before the bungee assembly was slipped into the fairing I made sure the rubber bands were secure. Once the gear is together, the first time the lighting system comes into play is with the rudder setup. Passing the cable for the rudder tail light through both the rudder
and the fuselage guide tube is made a lot easier by taping the end of the cable to one of Sullivan Products small flexible push - rods, like the S-507 Gold-N-Rod, and pulling through the guide tubes.
One significant discrepancy in setting up the pull-pull cable for the rudder was the brass crimp tubes supplied with the model. The manual calls for passing the control ca- ble though the crimp tube three times. It can only be done twice, with difficulty, with the supplied tubing. A much better substitute, easily available and probably in anyone’s stash of extra parts, for it and the tail wheel
Threadlock plays a very important role like helping to secure the screws on the rear wing strut bracket (above left). To help screw the jury strut bracket in the
20
wing (above center) a drill bit serves as a lever. Nylon lock nuts secure the attachment of the jury struts and spreader bar (above right).
APRIL 2013
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