chemical peels
Don’t let the term‘chemical peels’ fool you - if you
already offer facials in your salon Facial Peelswill take your treatmentmenu one step further
Facials are one of themost popular treatments a salon can offer, whether younger clients are looking to tackle oily orAcne skin- types, or older clients are on the look out for a treatment that can banish lines and wrinkles. However, are Chemical Peels on your treatmentmenu?
Many people, both therapists and clients, shy away fromChemical Peels for fear of traditional peels that destroy parts of the skin and cause the skin to blister and actually peel over a period of a few days. However, the peels we’re talking about here, and the ones used in salons, are known as superficial peels and don’t penetrate the skin as deep as a traditional Chemical Peel.
“Chemical Peels facilitate and enhance the absorption of active ingredients and influence the biological function of the skin, theirmain aimis to ignite a healing response to achieve complete renovation of deteriorated skin,” explains Faye Ramjaun, BrandManager for theMesoestetic range fromWellnessTrading.
Chemical Peels are divided into three broad categories based on the depth of action of the chemical – superficial (which are the type we’re talking about and carried out in the salon),mediumdepth and deep.
“Peels are chemical potions that are painted on the skin in order to be exfoliated,” explains Dr Patrick Bowler in his book The Nervous Girl’s Guide to Nip andTuck. He continues: “The earliest peel, used to treat acne scarring in the 1930s, was very strong and irritating, but today peels are available inmuchmilder
strengths.The strength depends on how acidic the chemical is and how long it is left on, a bit like hair highlights.”
Sharon Cass, Brand and Education manager for Cosmeceuticals, continues: “All peels carried out in salons are known as Superficial peels as they only remove dead skin calls and leave the skin intact (unlike deep and medium peels that remove some living tissue) – they are also known as lunchtime peels.
“Traditionally it has been taught that deeper peels are more effective, yet emerging research shows that a course of superficial peels avoids sensitising destruction of tissue and yet still induces powerful regeneration benefits.”
Faye adds: “The depth of penetration and effectiveness of each acid will depend upon its caustic nature, concentration and derivative. The choice of the depth and type of peel should be made in accordance with the type of lesion to be treated and the area involved. The peel intensity should be correlated with the depth of the lesions. For example, a patient with light photo-aging lesions should only be treated using a superficial peel, whereas character lines would require the application of a deeper or a medium-depth peel.”
A superficial peel treatment carried out several times over a period of time will not only help to exfoliate the skin by ‘eating’ away at dead skin cells, but by gradually removing damaged and thick skin will also help with the penetration of active ingredients into deeper parts of the epidermis, so any further facial treatments that follow have a better chance of achieving results too.
Superficial peels are used to exfoliate the skin and are aimed at the most outer layer of the skin and the overlaying dead skin cells.
peeling good
A superficial peel can be carried out on most skin types to treatmany skin concerns, but whatmakes themso popular is the results that they achieve, usually instantly. Offering facial peels enables you to treatmany of your clients’ concerns, such as dry,mature or dehydrated skins, as well as oily skins and those clients suffering fromAcne orAcne scarring, but are also suitable formost skin issues as they help products to penetrate into the epidermis, making it easier to treat skin conditions.
“Many people are surprised to find that most clients benefit frompeel services because superficialAHA peels normalise the skin and promote optimumskin health, they do not thin or sensitise the skin as many people think, quite the opposite,” says Sharon. “If applied correctly and appropriately then they only reduce the thickness of excess dead skin cells and actually thicken and volumise the living areas of the skin giving greater resilience and normalising of skin function.”
As for the ‘chemical’ side of the treatment, many treatments useAlpha HydroxyAcid (AHAs) such as GlycolicAcid, LacticAcid and FruitAcids, which are usually naturally occurring fruit acids and these are considered to be themildest peel formulas. The word ‘chemical’ is still widely used to describe what is nowmore of a gentle peel andmost of the peeling ingredients used within these treatments.
“HydroxyAcids will generally work on the superficial layers of the skin; they deliver secure, steady results producingminimum downtime and have a high safetymargin. They are indicated forminimum-moderate photo-ageing,mild acne and fine wrinkles,” says Faye.
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