q&a by dermalogica
changing faces Sally Penford discusses Oligopeptide-34
Q:With Summer approaching I know that I will start to seemore clients with hyperpigmentation. There are somany ingredients that claimto be able to work wonders but is there any one that you think stands out fromthe rest?
A: Hyperpigmentation is probably one of themost complex and challenging skin conditions that we are faced with in the professional skin centre.
However, formany years,The International Dermal Institute has tested almost every single new brightening agent that has been introduced to our industry and it was when we tested Oligopeptide-34 that we were blown away by the results. Our studies indicate that Oligopeptide- 34 is indeed themost effective, non- hydroquinone skin whitener.
Oligopeptide-34 is a small protein molecule (also known as a peptide) consisting of 13 amino acids strung together to create a highly efficient and activemolecule that helps prevent melanin formation for unsurpassed skin brightening.
where does it come from?
Oligopeptide-34 was developed in conjunction with anAsian biopharmaceutical company who specialise in the study of protein growth factors and growth factors mimicking
peptides.They are actively researching stemcell technology and developing diagnostic tools for the biopharmaceutical industry.
how does it work?
Oligopeptide-34 decreasesmelanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity in melanocytes and it decreases the transfer ofmelanosomes to new keratinoycte cells. Studies in the laboratory using humanmelanocytes andMelanocyte-StimulatingHormone (MSH, the hormone that signals the melanocyte to startmelanin production) showexpected production ofmelanin in 72 hours. In test tubeswhere Oligopeptide-34was added, the amount ofmelanin productionwas significantly reduced by approximately 33%.
After determining the optimum concentration of Oligopeptide-34, we conducted additional studies that indicated a reduction inTyrosinase enzyme activity by 65%. Studies comparing Oligopeptide-34 to vitamin C andArbutin showed Oligopeptide-34 to be superior; vitamin C andArbutin reduced pigmentation by 27%and 40%, respectively, while Oligopeptide- 34 reduced pigmentation by 47%.
brightening the skin safely
As professional skin therapists, our focusmust be upon seeking out products that are safe and effective for brightening the skin without causing irritation or
damage.Advicemust be for a comprehensive systemof products to be used that will layer effects and seemaximumresults. Just as pigmentation takes time to develop so too will it take time to
lighten.There are no quick fixes ormiracle cures to be had but with patience and ingredients such as Oligopeptide-34, results can be fantastic!
Hyperpigmentation is one of the most challenging skin conditions.
Terminology • Melanin: the pigment in our skin.
• Melanocyte: the cell that makes melanin.
• Melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH): the hormone that turns the melanocyte on, starting melanin production.
• Melanosomes: packets of melanin pigment that get transferred to surrounding cells.
• Tyrosinase: the enzyme involved in steps one and two of melanin production.
• Keratinocytes: technical term for cells of the epidermis.
Sally Penford is EducationManager for The
International Dermal Institute. For more information, telephone 08000 564 544 or visit
www.dermalinstitute.co.uk
GUILD NEWS 111
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