ethnic skincare
problems, such as premature ageing, acne, or hyperpigmentation such as laser, peels ormicrodermabrasion,” says Sharon.
The treatment of acne in a suitable way for ethnic skin should also be considered as it can leave scarring known as keloids on black skins. “Black skin does not show any differences in sweat glands, sweat production or sebaceous gland activity. However, there is less severe nodular cystic acne in black skin. Unfortunately, this can occur on the back of the neck in the hair and the scarsmay become keloids,” says Dr Des.
When treating acne, you should be aware of comedone extraction as this can also cause scarring and pigmentation issues: “Black skin is particularly vulnerable to keloid scarring and to pigmentation issues following trauma. It needsmore
“Many clientswith ethnic skin find that they suffer hyper- pigmentation following themost mundane skin problems, such as rashes, blemishes or
scratches.” - Sharon Cass, Education and Brand Manager for Cosmeceuticals.
careful treatment when it comes to treating problematic and congested skin,” says Tracy Tamaris, Environ’s Director of Training.
“Conventional extractions for clogged pores are not suitable because of the
tendency to scar easily. Rather, use steamand non-abrasive techniques – alpha and beta-hydroxy acid products are helpful. Pre cleansing oils can help to loosen congestions, andmild clay- basedmasques slough skin without abrading it,” Tracy continues. “Vitamin Ais important for all skin types regardless of shade, but is particularly crucial for those darker skins that create blemishes or scars in response to trauma.”
“Non-irritating, non-cytotoxic products are critical in the treatment of ethnic skins becausemelanocyte activity is increased by physical, chemical or UV irritation. Ethnic skins are evenmore prone to this problemso a very delicate balance between effectiveness and irritation capacitymust be closely monitored,” says Sharon.
Victoria Evans, Corporate Trainer at The International Dermal Institute advises that you should also be careful with exfoliation treatments and ethnic skin: “To bring about a clear and even complexion, look for brightening ingredients such as vitamin C, Niacinamide and oligopeptide – 34.
“Asian skin can also become sensitised and inflammation is another casual factor of hyper-pigmentation, so use products containing anti- inflammatories such as avena sativa, aloe vera and chamomile and ensure a daily application of sunscreen – SPF15 minimum,”Victoria continues.
However, the production ofmore melanin can have its benefits too! One of the benefits of ethnic skin is that it tends to age better than white skin. “Melanin is an amazingly powerful antioxidant, andmuch of the reason why darker skins wrinkle less,” says Dr Des. “But it’s not the only reason. SomeAsians are very pale with a yellowish tint due to some inherent tendency to extract beta-carotene fromthe blood streamand deposit it in the skin. Beta-carotene is also an extremely powerful antioxidant that can scavenge free radicals very effectively.”
“To bring about a clear and even complexion, look for brightening ingredients such as vitamin C, Niacinamide and
oligopeptide - 34.” - Victoria Evans, Corporate Trainer at The InternationalDermal Institute.
One of the other issues thatAsian and black skins can suffer fromis dehydration of the skin due to the cells being shedmore quickly, so you should bear this inmind when advising on an appropriate moisturiser.
Sunscreen
Nomatter what colour skin your clients have, you should always recommend that they wear a sunscreen daily, even on a cloudy day. “There is amisconception that black skin does not require sun protection,” saysVictoria. “Whilst it’s true that black skin can absorb up to 70%UV radiation compared to just 25%in lighter skin, 5%of those UVrays will still penetrate into the dermis giving rise to inflammation and connective tissue damage,” says Victoria.
“[Ethnic skins] do need a sunscreen containing UVB protection because these rays still affect the skin and cause pigmentation problems,” adds Tracy.
For information about skin care, see our listings on page 155
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