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Soaking the handrails and walkways in 91 percent alcohol overnight will take care of the mold release on the Derlin® (above). Once the parts have thoroughly dried, they can be given


plastic


a coat of primer (above right). Next, they were painted red (below left). The final step was to carefully brush paint the stanchions and handrails Engine Black using a No. 0 brush (below).


primer dries. I used Polly Scale Engine Black for the handrails after they are on the en- gine. There is no easy way around this: you need to use a hand brush. I use a Model Master No. 0 brush. Just load it up enough to get a nice line of color on the handrails. Move in one direction. I usually paint each stanchion first, then the railing. You can put a piece of paper behind them to protect the hood. The front platform also had a bit of


white, and rather than decal this I used Polly Scale Reefer White and a brush. It took a couple of coats.


Number boards It is now time to cover everybody’s


favorite topic, number boards. I used a decal set from Micro Scale and applied them as before except that I skipped the part about letting them sit on the paper towel to soften. Use tweezers, place the decal while it is still on its backing paper onto the number board, and slowly push the paper out from un- derneath. Once the decal is centered, apply just a drop of decal solution on the decal. Monitor the number boards and re-apply decal solvent as needed; I


RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN


needed three applications for this loco- motive’s number boards.


If the sheet does not happen to have the numerals in the order you need, apply the middle digit(s) first. Do the same on the next one(s), and when you get back to where you started the mid- dle decal should be dry enough to work next to it. To copy the glossy appearance of pro- totype number boards, I use Polly Scale Gloss Finish to seal the decals. Take a No. 0 brush, dip it in the gloss coat, and make one pass on each number board. Allow them to dry overnight.


Cab details I have found that models look better if the cab interior is painted, and this shows up in photos. Most locomotives were delivered from the factory with a light gray or light green cab interior, the “industrial light green” color that is so common. For the gray, I have found Polly Scale Milwaukee Road Gray to be a good match, and I apply it carefully with a brush. Go slowly here, as a mis-guided bristle can mar the outside finish. It took two coats to even out the color.


I decided to add an engineer. It looks


good on the front of a train and non- modelers really like to see the little man in there! I carefully cut out the center section of the window on the en- gineer’s side and removed the center piece of the glazing so the engineer could look out of the window. A bit of filing on the figure let it sit flush against the inside of the cab and clear the tab on the long hood. I was originally going to use a MV lens to replicate the CB&Q’s red upper light, but, as fate would have it, it did not fit right. One can use Model Master Acryl Clear Red (No. 4630), as this replicates marker lights really well and is semi-transparent, or Signal Red with clear gloss applied over it to get a “glass” look.


I installed the number boards and front window assembly, followed by the side window assemblies, then glued the engineer in place. Note that I only removed the middle section of the side window, rather than cutting the “glass” into three separate pieces. The plastic tab on the window molding helps keep the cab tight against the frame. For windshield wipers I used the ones


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