13.
tween the centersill pair at the location of the large hole molded between the bolster holes and the coupler box holes. Wedge and glue a length of Plastruct ¹₄″ square tubing between the lips at each end of the underside of the roof spaced to match the spacing of the holes in the floor. Drill (No. 50) and tap the center of the tubing to accommo- date the screws.
Detailing on the top of the roof is
simple, just vents and grabs. For the vents on my model I used NKP Car Company’s photoetched Budd vents, but there is a better choice which I learned of later, NKP Car’s B&O vents. Using the photos as a guide for place- ment, glue them 18″ above the bottom edge of the roof. With no prototype pho- to of the drawing room side of the car, vent placement on that side is a guess. The roof grabs appear longer than the standard 18″, so I used Wester- field’s 21″ grabs. Referring to the pho- tos for placement, install the lower grab 18″ above the bottom edge of the roof, and the upper grab 18″ above the lower one. A divider is handy for locat- ing the grabs vertically and spacing their rungs. As with the vents, grab placement on the drawing room side is a guess.
Over each vestibule door is a drip
ledge, which I cut from .020″×.020″× 3′-3″ styrene strip. Glue them to the roof centered over the doors and an- gling slightly downward toward the center of the car. With a file, thin the edge of the drip strip to more closely match the thickness of the prototype. At the bottoms of the ends, install the molded grabs on each side of the di- aphragm opening. Install the coupler yoke, and the molded uncoupling levers. Drill (No. 78) for the vestibule grabs; since they will be unpainted, it saves time to install them after paint- ing the carbody.
The retractable steps on the proto- type necessitated the addition of small stirrups at each corner of the car. Bend
RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN
these with needle nose pliers from .012″ wire and install them in closely spaced side-by-side holes drilled into the skirting near its end.
Painting and lettering Paint the carbody and ends of the roof with Scalecoat II Tuscan Red. Mask the carbody and paint the under- body, exposed ice bunkers and battery box, coupler yoke, diaphragms, and trucks Grimy Black. The ice bunkers, battery box, diaphragm end plates, and trucks will benefit from weathering with a light overspray of dark rusty grunge; I used a mix of Floquil Roof Brown and Rust. Mask the roof ends and paint the roof with a lightened black; I used a Floquil mix of three parts Engine Black and one part Reefer Gray.
On my model I used decals from Champion Decal Company, now out of business. If you are fortunate to have Champ’s Pennsy decals in your inven- tory, post-1952 Dulux lettering is avail- able on either the PH-82D or PH-153 sets; the car name William Ellery will need to be “pieced” from the lettering of other car names in the set. Matching stripes are found in set S-88. Alternative decals are available from Microscale in their Nos.
through 87-894 decal set series. Locate the top single stripe just
touching the top of the rivet row above the windows; the bottom stripe abuts the bottom edge of the belt rail. By cut- ting the stripe as close as possible to the edge of the printing with a sharp blade the decal can be made to nestle closely to the belt rail or the rivet strip. The decal alignment jig shown in the March 2002 issue of Model Railroader, page 62, will assure straight stripes and lettering.
The road name is horizontally cen- tered on the letterboard midway be- tween the stripe and the top of the side. The small “Pullman” is located 1′- 0″ from the edge of the door frame. The
car name is horizontally centered on the lower side midway between the bottom of the lower stripe pair and the top of the skirting.
Seal the decals with a satin overcoat
such as Floquil Flat Finish for a clean, freshly painted car, or with a flat finish such as Testor’s Dullcote for a car which has run some miles since being washed. Avoid a glossy finish, which will make your model look toy-like.
87-891
Final assembly Install the Branchline windows; a small drop of Krystal Kleer at each cor- ner will secure them without crazing the visible portion of the window pane. Install the weight and interior. Window shades on the prototype are an olive drab color, which I was able to match with the inside surface of a cardboard Pendaflex file folder. Glue the shades in place using a contact ce- ment. In preparing a car for passen- gers, the Pullman Company had tight specifications regarding the exact height placement of shades; during a trip, many of the shades would remain at this height, while others would be adjusted by the passengers based on their comfort preferences. Varying the height of the shades will give your model a “lived in” look. On my model, I had fun duplicating the shade arrange- ment of the prototype photo. Paint some sections of .012″ wire sil- ver and install them as safety bars in the corridor windows near the right- hand end of each side.
Install the vestibule grabs in the previously drilled holes. A scrap of .015″ styrene is handy for consistently spacing the grabs from the sides, and a very small drop of cyanoacrylate on each leg will secure the grab. Secure the roof to the carbody with
2-56×1″ screws. Glue the diaphragms to the ends. Glue the steam traps and generator to the underbody, install the trucks and couplers, and your Better- ment Pullman is ready to roll.
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