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sheets but no corresponding numbers on this page for part numbers refer- enced in text. For assembly, I used Gap Filling cyanoacrylate. Small lengths of .010″ wire and a couple of toothpicks were utilized to apply the cyanoacry- late to all joints and components. If you’ve built a wood laser kit or two, as- sembly will be familiar to you. I did find a piece of 150 or 200 grit sandpa- per invaluable. This is N scale so when you remove a very tiny window frame or trim from the carrier sheet, the left- over “nub” on the edge of the piece is very noticeable, I spent a lot of time sanding those nubs off but the result was more than worth the effort. I


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windows/trim while they were on the carrier sheets. Houses of this style were typically painted two or three contrasting and hopefully complimen- tary colors and were referred to as “painted ladies.” I chose Pollyscale D&H Gray for the walls and Wiscon- sin Central Maroon for the trim. The walls went together easily and in no time I had the basic house together. I did reinforce corner joints with 2″×2″ and 4″×4″ square strip styrene. The walls robust thickness required no need for any further interior bracing. At first glance the detail sheet with windows and trim looks almost over- whelming there are so many small and fine pieces. Once you begin to as- semble the windows, you’ll get a rhythm going and the process will be- come familiar. For window glazing, you’re on your own. There are no num- bers or references as to what laser-cut glazing goes where. Where some of the


glazing goes is self evident because of shape and/or large size. There are however quite a few small,


square pieces of glazing similar but slightly different in size. My advice is to assemble and glaze the most obvious windows and by process of elimination you’ll be able to figure out most of them. Then, using trail and error, fit the last few. If you end up with the wrong ones, trim a few a bit smaller to fit the sash. Annoying perhaps but as each window is finished and placed in their openings on the house, the structure takes on a unique charm inspiring you to continue. When applying the trim/window peel- and-stick components to the tower do be mindful of the trim overlaps at each corner. There are a lot of pieces of peel-and-


stick corner trim and where each goes, much like the window glazing, seems daunting and confusing at the outset. The easiest approach is to begin with all those pieces of trim with the angle on top which corresponds to the angle on the siding of the house. With the myriad of roof lines it is the simplest way I found to get through the numer- ous pieces of trim. None of the trim goes on the bottom of the structure as there is a foundation to be added later. When all the trim was in place, run a bead of cyanoacrylate along each seam where the edges meet. I found it necessary to carefully sand


the edges of the front porch pillars to get a square, tight fit at the corner of the porch. This is indeed a delicate op- eration, so take your time, let the sand paper do the work and resist all temp- tation to press down to make the task


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