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the refrigerator and a freezer. I added the black griddle with the hood vent outside the window and some dark green construction paper window shades. This is a work car, so I dis- tressed the bottom of the shades with a knife and coarse sandpaper. I also added a couple of larger than life size figures inside (they were on hand in my parts supply box). The floor was paint- ed with Floquil Zinc Chromate Primer No. 110450, duplicating the composi- tion floor material such cars often had. With the interior complete, the next

One vestibule has a tank for the fuel oil next to the door, which has been cut down but not removed. The PRR decided side doors and traps were not needed on camp cars.

of the carbody. This adds a great touch to the model and is very easy to do. Remember, this car is from pre-air conditioner days. When installing the window glazing, cut and overlap the glazing into the plastic strip. I used American Model Builders laser-cut windows, kit No. 372, for the Pullman sleeper. Usually the smaller size win- dows are toward the end of the car. You will also need one 15″ roof vent

in the middle and center of the roof. The side view shows the placement. I used Precision Scale Company vent No. 33203, FLS Dome 201. Read the Branchline instructions for

the roof. Find the end of the roof that has the longest roof line for the air con- ditioning duct. It goes almost to the end of the roof. This end will be the only end of the car that the door opening will not be opened up since it has the fuel oil storage tank against the outside door but inside of the vestibule entrance. Check the photos, which clearly show

the doors removed from the vestibules. These need to be removed on the mod- el (except at the fuel tank location). One side of the roof will also have a smokejack and the vestibule door on that end will need to have the window glazing inserted so it can be painted over.

Work on one side of the car at a time.

The first two windows need to be blanked out on the side with the short air conditioning duct since a fuel oil furnace would have been inside the car at this location. Make sure you check photos for correct placement of the smokejacks for the furnace. On my model I placed a smokejack at this end. I used two Utah Pacific caboose stacks, No. CS 73, 27″ stack. The other smoke- jack needs to be added on this same


side at the other end of the air condi- tioner duct, a half an inch from its end. The other end of the car on this side

needs to have the vestibule door re- moved. We will now do the opposite side of

the car. Both doors will need to be cut open. Take your time and scribe this area with a new blade and a small straightedge, and the opening can be made. When looking at this side of the car, you will need to add a kitchen vent. It should be lined up with a plated-over window—about five windows in from the left is good. The vent should be tri- angular shaped, but I liked the looks of the quarter round better. I used Ever- green No. 248 .060″ quarter round. In- side the car at this spot I added a large black, cast iron griddle. When looking at this side of the car,

you will notice, in the vestibule, that the door was not cut out on the opposite side of the body; that is where the fuel oil tank to heat the car was installed. The photos show this. I built the fuel tank by making a block of styrene .310″×.585″ in size with a height of .772″. The legs on the tank are bits of Evergreen Scale No. 123, .020″×.060″ strip. I added the copper wire to repre- sent the fuel oil line into the car, pre- drilling the tank and the body panel next to it. The tank was placed into po- sition before the roof was installed. I painted the inside walls of the car a

shade just a little darker than mint green, that nearly-universal industrial light green used on railroad equipment and machinery (and school room walls) since the time that paint was invented. I also put some details cobbled up from plastic inside. A long table with bench- es was added in the middle of the car, and a white chunk of plastic represents

step was painting the car. I used Flo- quil solvent-based paints and mixed the following formula directly into the cup of the airbrush. This formula is for a cup, not a full bottle, of paint: Floquil Reefer Yellow No. 110031, two drops of Reefer Orange No. 110030, and two drops of Reefer White No. 110011. The PRR had two paint schemes on

these cars. In the early 1950’s the word PENNSYLVANIA was spelled out and the camp cars had silver roofs. Sometime in the mid-1950’s the road went with just the letters “PRR” and the number on the car side. At this time they also started using the black roof. Decals are available for $8.00 per set, and they cov- er the silver and the black roof era cars. They are available from robstrains@ The decal set will do three cars of each paint scheme. At last report the Penn Central His-

torical Society still had a few PRR yel- low X29’s available to be used with the camp cars. They can be purchased from the company store of the PCRRHS at This car will help complete the camp

car train. I hope you consider building at least

one of these cars. Of all the projects I have ever done, I enjoyed these the most. Maybe it is because I saw the cars, or maybe it is because they add so much “typical Pennsy” feeling to a scene. In 1970, I was the fireman on the PC

yard job at Minerva, Ohio. The car in this article, PRR 492900, was assigned to the bridge gang in Cleveland, Ohio, and was working on the Alliance Branch doing maintenance on the bridges. I just can’t find a way to re- produce the smell of bacon and nicotine in the car and the cook with a quarter of an inch of cigarette ash hanging down while cooking us breakfast and wearing a dirty white apron. Maybe that is the real reason I liked this pro- ject so much. The model brings back so many memories. Finally, thanks to Rob’s Trains at

333 East Main Street, Alliance, Ohio, for having kits and all the parts I need- ed to build my car.


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