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Bucker Jungmann


Before assembly it is a good idea to use a sealing iron to seal in edges (above left). Preparing to remove covering from stab (above right). It is important to cut just deep enough to remove the desired covering. The servos used will


determine the space between the mounting post (below left). Mini servos are used here. The servo hatch placed into the wing (below right). It’s best to mark a left and right to avoid confusion.


as opposed to the text and if you are new to the hobby getting help on assembly and fly- ing is a good idea. Okay let’s get this critter out of the box onto the bench and into the air.


As you assemble the Bucker, especially


the servos in the fuselage, try to get every- thing lined up and checked as you go along. A little time spent here will save you a lot of time if you have to disassemble the plane to make adjustments. An example: adjusting a servo or pushrod later will require the re- moval of the lower wing, interplane struts, and cabanes. I wanted some of the parts, e.g. clevises


and wheel hubs, to match the color of the plane so I spray painted them. Since I did not have to worry about using fuel-proof paint I was able to match the colors at my local hardware store. Glue the hinges for the ailerons to the wings and the elevator to the stab. I used thin CyA. Be sure to flex the hinges as the CyA sets up. Attach servo extensions to the aileron ser-


vos. Tape or secure the connection together. A pull or draw string has been factory in- stalled in the wings referred to in the man- ual as “servo line”. Carefully pull the servo extension to the center and it will exit through the hole in the lower wing top cen- ter. Secure the extension end while you con-


50


tinue to work so you don’t lose it back down the rabbit hole. This will save you a fishing expedition. Be sure to use servos that are designed for


this purpose and have a thin profile. Some modification to the mounting will be re- quired. Trim and check for clearance of the servo output arms. Take off a little at a time. “Measure twice cut once”. Mount the servos in the pockets on the wings after you have centered them and checked for clearance. Check for correct orientation and throws. The aileron 1.8 × 60mm pushrod will re-


quire trimming. I cut and soldered a thread- ed extension to it. Extensions are available at your local hobby shop or online. I found this works best since rebending the rods is almost impossible as the steel used is too brittle and can fracture. Determine if you are going to use a Y connection for the wing servos. I used one in the Bucker and it worked fine. Attach the connector now. Step #5 requires the removal of the cover-


ing where the stab mates to the fuselage. Trim carefully and do not cut too deep and weaken the stab. Trim the fin the same way. Epoxy the fin and stab to the fuselage. Check for proper alignment. Step #8 is the attachment of the rudder


and tail wheel assembly. I cut a “V” in the rudder to recess the wire. Drill a small hole


in the rudder to accept the tiller end of the tail wheel. I did not secure the tiller proper- ly and it came loose during my first taxi at- tempt at the field and had to repair it at the field. I hate to do field repairs! Install the servos in the fuselage. I rein- forced the forward bulkhead with a 5


⁄8 × 5⁄8


piece of spruce. I felt this was necessary as the bulkhead flexed when I activated the servo. I took my time and set up the servos and pushrods and checked all throws and centering. I took care and double-checked everything. Once you get the wings on it is going to take some disassembly to readjust. Steps 11 through 15 deal with landing gear and inter-plane cabanes and struts. The fab- ric covered pieces of the landing gear slide into place and I glued them to the wire land- ing gear with thin CyA which I allowed to run down the wire. Take care, a little goes a long way. The cabane struts took some time. I had


trouble locating the blind nuts in the fuse- lage. I tried a bright flashlight and other ways. I finally located them the easy way by applying pressure to the general location with my finger. This proved very simple and I soon found the location of the four round indents in the fuselage. After locating them I found the center of the circle of the blind nuts and penetrated the covering with a pin.


DECEMBER 2011


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