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ABCDE Travel sunday, october 24, 2010


SAMPLEIT Pocketbook


issues At this Puerto Rican boutique, it’s all in the bag. F3


Navigator Don’t scratch that rental car—or else. F2 Bed Check A B&B suite that’s not quite honeymoon sweet. F2


Coming and Going The autumn of French discontent. F3 CHAT Monday at NOON at washingtonpost.com/travel


IMPULSIVE TRAVELER


Deep in the


heart of Texas A prairie resort minus the scratchy cactus and the armadilloes. F6


THECARIBBEAN F EZ


Just 90 miles offshore, the embargoed yet inviting isle calls out to a sailing family. But there are provisions to consider.


BY MEGAN ROSENFELD I Special to The Washington Post


t was probably my stepdaughter, Doony, who had the idea, but the proposition was greeted so enthusiastically by other members of the family that it would be hard for her to claim exclusive ownership at this point. ¶ “Why don’t we sail to Cuba?” she said. And we answered, “Why not?” ¶ True, Washington and Havana are officially on the outs, but the journey seemed so inviting. We are, after all, practically


neighbors: Cuba is only 90 miles from Key West, Fla., and our boat was only two days’ sail from there, in West Palm Beach.We just ignored the blog that said: “You’ll be bucking both the current and the prevailing winds. It makes for a very tough passage.” ¶ It should be noted that of our crew of six — five adults between 22 and 69 and one 31/2


-year-old—all except for


meare hardy sailors with saltwater coursing through their veins, and stomachs of steel. My husband, a.k.a. the Captain, has done five transatlantics, including one last year with our daughter, Marina. Doony and her husband, Jamie, have both been sailing since they were tots. Although I knew I would be out of my element (some would say out of my mind), I wanted to join the crew anyway, to share an adventure with family and to see Cuba.


cuba continued on F5


Untracked Barbados Island life and beauty along a railway-turned-trail


BY NANCY TREJOS From the top of a hill in Barba-


dos, I could see the Caribbean waves breaking over the rocks and the reefs. The water was so tur- quoise, the sand so white. I could have stood there for hours, staring out to sea. Butthatwouldhavebeenavoid-


ing the problem staring me in the face. Ihadtoget off that hill. Ithadn’t


beenaneasyclimbup,andtheway down looked even more daunting. I turned to my companion, Bruce Rudder, a 59-year-old Bajan (or Barbadian) farmer. He pointed to a narrow path of white clay, stud- ded with roots and branches, that led to the beach below. A very long, very steep path. My heart lurched, and I gave


him a panicked look. But Bruce had spent his entire


life hiking this terrain. “There’s no other way,” he assured me. “Trust me. I will get you down.” Weweresix hours into the Colin


Hudson Great Train Hike, the highlight of the local hiking calen- dar. Bajans are passionate about hiking, thanks to the lateHudson, an environmentalist who in 1983 beganleadingmorning, afternoon and evening hikes on the island every Sunday. Hudson died in 2004, but the weekly hikes remain popular with locals and tourists alike. “He was a great innovator and a


TOP: FAMILY PHOTO; ABOVE: IAN DAGNALL/ALAMY


The cafes in the plaza ofHavana’s 18th-century cathedral embody the faded beauty Americans imagine when they think of Cuba.


great environmentalist,” said Wil- liam Gollop, head of the Barbados National Trust, which now runs the hikes. “This is a great memori-


barbados continued on F4 CHRIS ALLEYNE FOR THE WASHINGTON POST


With views such as this one, it’s no wonder that Bajans are passionate about hiking. Consett Bay in St. John parish is one of the spectacular vistas on the ColinHudson Great TrainHike.


Cuba AHOY


!


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