NAVIGATOR
aliñadas (potato salad) have their devotees. This upmarket restaurant is decorated with pretty ceramics but gets mixed reviews.
FRANCISCO FONTANILLA
One of the best places to taste tuna in all its forms, this beachside restaurant in Conil offers an array of dishes of prepared tuna, tartar, sashimi, tuna belly with apple and sesame compote, tuna pate and more. A meal for two with wine will set you back around €60 or €70.
DRINK
QUILLA BEACH BAR, PLAYA DE A CALETA Quilla Beach Bar sits above Playa de la Caleta and next to a 17th-century fortress, making it a great spot to sip a sangria at sunset and enjoy the view. There’s a tapas menu if you’re hungry, too.
CASA MANTECA For something a little livelier, head to Casa Manteca, where the walls are covered in flamenco and bullfighting memorabilia, and every possible type of cured pork hangs above the bar.
TABERNA LA MANZANILLA Taberna La Manzanilla is the place to try a sherry or two. It’s a family-run tavern dating back to the 1930s and the walls are lined with different bottles of all sizes and ages. Ask for a manzanilla, a type of fino sherry, and pull up a pew.
CULTURE ROMAN THEATRE
One of the oldest and largest in Spain. The stage remains unexcavated (it lies
MERCADO CENTRAL DE ABASTOS Originally built in 1838, Spain’s oldest covered market was reopened 10 years ago after restoration and remodelling, yet still retains its 19th-century allure. More than 150 stalls sell everything from sushi and Argentinean empanadas to fresh tuna and live snails. The market is best visited on Friday or Saturday, when crowds eat fried fish and swill ice-cold manzanilla.
CÁDIZ CATHEDRAL A 19th-century monolith that dominates the horizon. Cannons dating to the Napoleonic Wars have been repurposed as guardrails, standing upright on corners to protect the buildings from turning cars.
LA VIÑA A trip to Cádiz would not be complete without visiting La Viña, just on the edge of Playa Caleta. This is a great place to go at night with its offering of tapas bars, restaurants and hangouts. This is the beating heart of Cádiz’s streetlife. A great place to visit for tapas is the old-school Casa Manteca, one of Cádiz’s most famous tapas bars and full of old school charm.
under nearby houses), but you can visit the entrance and large seating area as well as the visitors’ centre.
ORATORIO DE SAN FELIPE NERI A walk up Calle San José from the Plaza de la Mina will bring you to this church, where Spain’s first liberal constitution (known affectionately as La Pepa) was declared in 1812. It was here, too, that the Cortes (Parliament) of Cádiz met when the rest of Spain was subjected to the rule of Napoléon’s brother, Joseph Bonaparte.
ESSENTIAL CADIZ
PUERTO SHERRY 36º34’38”N 6º15’15”W VHF 09
Tel +34 956 870 103 Email
puertosherry@puertosherry.com Website
puertosherry.com Max length 70m Max beam 20m Max draft 4.5m
BUCKET LIST
SUNSET AT PLAYA DE LA CALETA This beach imitated Havana’s craggy harbour in the James Bond film Die Another Day – when Halle Berry famously
emerged, goddess-like,
from the sea. The cove is marked by a distinctive Moorish-style white balneario (spa) and flanked by two ancient fortresses.
FEBRUARY February for one of Europe’s biggest carnivals, with locals in fancy dress and music on every corner.
JEREZ
Head into Jerez for a sherry tour and experience some of the local favourites, we guarantee, sherry will be on your wine list after this visit.
TORRE TAVIRA For one of the best views of Cádiz, climb to the top of the Torre Tavira, one of the many watchtowers that dot the city. It’s also host to a camera obscura, where, in a dark room, you can get a live tour of the city through the lens of a giant pinhole camera that’s mounted on top of the tower.
GENOVES PARK
Escape the beach and head to the tranquillity of Genoves Park, a botanical garden between the old town and the Atlantic Ocean on the most western tip of Cadiz. The beautiful surroundings are a favourite with locals, who you’ll find taking a siesta under the shade of a tree or meeting for lunch in the small outdoor cafe.
ONBOARD | WINTER 2020 | 155
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