The Embroidery Column
Are you suffering from tension? I
am not referring to the mental type of tension but your thread tension. The single biggest problem we encounter in the embroidery industry is poor thread tension settings.
It never ceases to amaze me how both small and large companies over look this most important embroidery machine setting. Embroiderers are very quick to blame embroidery thread as not running well on their machine, causing thread breaks, but this is only due to poor thread tension settings and worn out eyes of the needle.
Generally in the UK embroidery thread tensions are set to high. One of the most disturbing issues is the fact that embroiderers do not adjust thread tensions for different thickness of fabric. This observation is re-enforced by the fact that embroiderers use very strong poly/cotton under thread due to under thread breaking with the strong pull of the top thread. If the top thread tension was set lower, then they would not have to use such a strong under thread. You only have to understand the process that is involved between the top thread and under thread to achieve better thread settings.
What happens?
The needle brings the top thread down through the fabric and on the way back up it creates a loop.
The under thread is fed through the loop by the rotating hook to stop the top thread being pulled back up and this provides the knot.
that happens, then just like a rubber band it will contract back to its original size and cause puckering. If you look at your embroidery, this is especially noticeable on large stitch designs; the embroidery should be sitting on top of the fabric. But in many cases the embroidery is pulled into the fabric.
If you run your machine at very fast speeds you will have a higher tension setting. So again, to achieve better quality embroidery and less thread breaks run your machine at a moderate speed.
I would always recommend that you provide your staff with thread tension settings training from your machine engineer. This small cost will pay dividends in the long run. While you get this done, also ask him to check that your top thread is set up to run in the correct direction. This training will help you achieve better embroidery results. Tension gauges for both top and bottom thread are available. But these are a guide only and you do not have a set tension for every different type of embroidery fabric. These are very goods tools for multi-head machines so that if you set one head thread tension correctly, you can then use the same tension on the other heads. A number of factors will influence your thread tension setting.
The principle is just the same as tying a shoe lace. If you wear thick socks you will require a lower tension on your shoelace than if you were wearing thin socks. So why would you not apply this principle to your embroidery machine? Wilcom has produced a very informative chart that illustrates the balance between top and bottom thread tensions. Next, embroiderers complain that the backing is not strong enough for them and use more layers, to stop the thread pulling through. The cause of this again is high tensions. We will talk about embroidery backings another day. You can easily see this problem when looking at the back of the embroidery. You will see the under thread is missing and only the top thread is visible on the underside.
Embroiderers always complain about puckering. Again this is due to thread tension settings. If your thread tension was set lower the fabric would not be pulled during the embroidery process. One major thread brand, actually tells people that their thread stretches and does not break during embroidery. Well, if
| 48 | June 2019
Here are some points to look at. ● Type of needles and inserting them correctly. The manual will tell you the needle should be 10⁰ to the right, but this is impossible to judge so I suggest you put it in straight with the
groove facing the front. ● Balance top and bottom thread tensions. ● Maintain tension springs and felt. Renew on a regular basis. ● Tension knobs, make sure these are in good condition and
work properly. Over a period of time the thread will create a groove in the metal and this will prevent you adjusting the
thread tension. ● Training. Ask your machine engineer to provide you with
basic knowledge. ● Thick and thin garments. Adjust your tensions accordingly. ● Machine speed. Find the optimum speed for your machine. ● Keeping bobbin cases clean and in good condition this will
result in better tensions. ● Regular maintenance to keep your machine running smoothly.
www.printwearandpromotion.co.uk
This month Jas Purba, managing director of ETC Supplies, discusses tension and how to overcome this all too familiar embroidery problem.
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80
