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WA T CH SPE CI AL


94


BEST FOR TRAVELLING: ROLEX GMT-MASTER II Watches that could display the time around the world have existed since the late 1800s, when time zones were formalised. But it wasn’t until the advent of the jet age that the idea of simultaneously tracking time in more than one place became a practical concern, and while it wasn’t the first, Rolex’s GMT-Master (a response to a direct commission from Pan Am pilots) was the watch that epitomised the new trend. Some 65 years later, the GMT-Master II is more likely to be on the wrists of first class passengers than those in the cockpit, but it has lost none of its steadfast usability (with the arrow-head hand and the 24-hour bezel, you can actually keep an eye on three locations at once), even as it has gained a fancier “jubilee” bracelet. New for 2019 is the return of the black and blue bezel, nicknamed the “Batman” by Rolex devotees. £7,150; rolex.com


OVERALL WATCH OF THE YEAR: BULGARI OCTO FINISSIMO CHRONOGRAPH Te matt, muted, monochrome colour palette adopted by Bulgari isn’t for everyone; neither is the multifaceted case shape. I think the Octo Finissimo is one of very few designs of the past 20 years to have really added anything to the watch world, however, and the way that Bulgari keeps developing record-breaking versions deserves applause. Tis watch is the thinnest mechanical chronograph ever made. If you need context for that achievement, the next time you see an Omega Speedmaster, Rolex Daytona or pretty much any regular chronograph from a mainstream brand, imagine squashing it down to approximately half of its thickness (but around the same diameter) and it still working – with the capacity to tell the time in a second time zone for good measure. It’s a watch you can wear every day that looks like nothing else out there, and also happens to be a work of borderline genius, and that’s why it’s my watch of the year. £15,200; bulgari.com


BEST FIRST WATCH: HAMILTON KHAKI PILOT PIONEER MECHANICAL What better way to mark your arrival among us hopeless watch addicts than with a 36mm hand-wound tribute to a 1970s model made for the RAF? Forget any ideas you might have had about playing it safe; it’s never too soon to start showing a bit of personality on your wrist. £720; hamiltonwatch.com


MOST INGENIOUS: VACHERON CONSTANTIN TWIN BEAT PERPETUAL CALENDAR


Delivering improvements you never knew you needed is what the top brands live for. In creating a perpetual calendar that can run for a huge 65 days (not hours) thanks to a switchable dual-frequency of devilish complexity, Vacheron Constantin scored the cleverest watch of the year. £195,000; vacheron-constantin.com


NOV EMB E R 20 19


MOST SURPRISING: HUBLOT FERRARI GT Car-branded watches aren’t usually of interest to anyone other than die-hard fans, and Hublot’s prolific volume of special editions means single watches struggle to stand out. But in allowing Ferrari’s design team to have a genuine input, it has produced a striking new shape that turns heads even among automotive agnostics. £18,200; hublot.com


bus ine s s tr a v el ler .c om


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