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square via Tkalciceva, a colourful pedestrian-only cobbled street packed with busy little cafés and bars, much loved by local students, with outdoor terraces, and rugs and heating provided through the winter. WHERE TO EAT: Lanterna na Dolcu is a fine choice for dinner, with an arched brick ceiling and starched white table linens. Its chefs shop for produce for their authentic regional dishes at nearby Dolac market – try the speciality, pisanica stubica (veal medallions in a plum sauce, served with croquettes). Closed on Mondays.
lanterna-zagreb.com WHERE TO DRINK: Bornstein, near the cathedral, is a stylish wine bar in a vaulted brick cellar. Tere is Croatian wine- tasting and an adjoining shop where you can buy bottles to take home. Closed on Sundays.
bornstein.hr WHAT TO SEE: Standing near the parliament, the Museum of Broken Relationships – perhaps appropriately, given the break-up of Yugoslavia – examines love stories that went astray. Each exhibit is a testimony to a doomed liaison, with a short text explaining its significance to its ex-owner. Open daily; entry 40 kn (£4.85).
brokenships.com WHERE TO SHOP: Link Gallery is a tiny concept store stocking quirky accessories by Croatian designers, such as ceramics, wood-and-epoxy- resin jewellery, marble kitchenware and hip backpacks.
galerija-link.hr
DONJI GRAD Laid out by the Hapsburgs in the 19th century as the
Te Roman Catholic church has played a pivotal role
here for centuries – Croats are predominantly Catholic, while most Serbs are Orthodox Christians. One of Zagreb’s most charming religious shrines is Kamenita vrata (Stone Gate), a medieval archway concealing an icon of Our Lady, where the faithful light flickering candles. Behind the Sabor (parliament) you’ll see St Mark’s
Church, with its colourful roof. Nearby stands the 13th- century, 30-metre-tall Lotrscak Tower on Strossmayer promenade. A cannon is fired here every day at noon, and if you make your way to the top (entry fee 20 kn/£2.40) you’ll be rewarded with fantastic views, with the high-rise apartment blocks of Novi Zagreb (New Zagreb) rising to the south, on the far side of the River Sava. From here, a tiny funicular (5 kn/61p) connects Gornji
Grad to Ilica, the city’s bustling main shopping street, lined with well-known European chains. Side passages take you into quaint dvorista (courtyards), home to smaller boutiques, ateliers and cafés. If you’re not in the mood for shopping, retrace your steps and descend to the main
NOV EMB E R 2 0 19
city expanded, the Lower Town is a grid of tree-lined boulevards overlooked by grandiose Austro-Hungarian buildings. Walking from the main square down to the Glavni kolodvor (main train station), you’ll pass through three adjoining monumental squares, each centring on a park with green lawns and towering plane trees. It’s especially lovely here during the city’s Advent festivities (November 30-January 7;
adventzagreb.com), when the trees are hung with fairy lights, kiosks sell mulled wine, the old music pavilion hosts aſter-dark concerts, and an open- air ice rink is set up in front of the station. Zagreb once lay on the Orient Express rail route, hence
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Trams have been running in Zagreb since 1891; Bornstein is an atmospheric spot for a drink; Tkalciceva Street is lined with cafés and bars
the opening of the imposing Hotel Esplanade next to the station in 1925. Nearby are various public buildings erected by the Hapsburgs, including several (slightly weary) museums and the impressive imperial-yellow Croatian National Teatre. South-east of the train station, the area between Drzic avenue and Radnicka street, close to the new Doubletree hotel, is regarded as the new business district, with recently constructed high-rises.
→ bus ine s s tr a v el ler .c om
VISIT ZAGREB:
VISITZAGREB.HR
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