DE S T INAT IONS
TRIPS OUT OF TOWN If you have time, there are some excellent excursions close to the capital.
IN HALF A DAY… Located about 9km north of Zagreb, Medvednica Nature Park is criss-crossed by a network of well-marked hiking trails, leading through meadows and woodlands. Begin at the Sljeme tunnel, then follow the most popular trail (number 18) to the Bliznec Information Centre and up to the Puntijarka mountain hut (6km; 927 metres above sea level), where you can refuel with a classic hiker’s lunch of grah s kobasicom (beans and sausages). Medvednica’s highest peak, Mount Sljeme, rises 1,035 metres and offers skiing in winter.
pp-medvednica.hr
Heading east from the main square, Vlaska street runs 70
into Maksimirska road, which will bring you to Maksimir Park, an expanse of lawns, clusters of oak trees, ponds and ornamental flower beds. Also here is Maksimir Stadium, where Zagreb’s football team, Dinamo, and the Croatian national squad play their home matches. In this neighbourhood, a deliciously sweet smell of dark chocolate hangs in the air – the Kras factory (
kras.hr) produces Croatia’s favourite chocolates, Griotte (filled with cherry liquor) and Bajadera (with hazelnut nougat). WHERE TO EAT: Modern European restaurant Noel was awarded a Michelin star earlier this year. Chef Goran Kocis’s dégustation menus (four or seven courses) might include almond and lobster risotto, ravioli with trout and truffles, or duck with pumpkin. It’s located several blocks east of the main square. Closed on Sundays.
noel.hr WHERE TO DRINK: Dezman Bar serves quality coffee, organic herbal teas, fine wines (by the glass or bottle) plus cocktails and snacks, all day in a peaceful pedestrian area off busy Ilica street. Closed Sunday-Monday.
dezman.hr WHAT TO SEE: Te Modern Gallery exhibits an array of paintings, sculpture and multimedia from the 19th century to the present. Displayed chronologically, it highlights the avant-garde creativity in the former Yugoslavia and today’s Croatia – look out for works by sculptor Ivan Mestrovic and painter Edo Murtic. It lies midway between the main square and the train station. Closed Mondays; entry 40 kn (£4.85).
moderna-galerija.hr/en WHERE TO SHOP: Aromatica stocks its own natural cosmetics, including soaps, shampoos and lotions, containing fragrant rosemary, sage and lavender, plus essential oils and teas. It’s on Vlaska, east of the main square.
aromatica.hr/en/ BT n Zagreb airport is served from London Heathrow by both Croatia Airlines and British Airways.
NOV EMB E R 2 0 19
ABOVE: Hotel Esplanade BELOW: Trakoscan Castle; Plitvice Lakes National Park
IN A FULL DAY… About 50km north of the city, rural Zagorje is known for its sleepy villages, imposing castles and hills planted with vineyards. Several wineries are open for tours and tasting (reservations recommended), notably Bodren, Bolfan and Vuglec Breg. On November 11, Martinje (St Martin’s Day) is enthusiastically celebrated in Zagorje with the blessing of the season’s new wine. The best castles to visit are the sturdy medieval Veliki Tabor and the white fairytale Trakoscan. For lunch, try Gresna Gorica near Veliki Tabor, which serves rustic local specialities such as zapeceni strukli (baked cheese dumplings).
visitzagorje.hr,
bodren.hr,
bolfanvinskivrh.hr,
vuglec-breg.hr,
gresna-gorica.hr
OVERNIGHT… Croatia’s most visited inland destination, Plitvice Lakes National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site located 130km south of Zagreb. It’s set amid dense pine forests that conceal 16 turquoise lakes connected by a series of cascades and waterfalls. The entrance ticket (from 60 kn/£7.27 to 250 kn/ £30.28 depending on the season) gives you access to a labyrinth of wooden walkways that cross the park and the national park boats that traverse the lakes. Stay at the luxurious Fenomen Plitvice boutique hotel.
np-plitvicka-jezera.hr,
fenomen-plitvice.com
bus ine s s tr a v el ler .c om
PHANT/MICHEYK/ISTOCK
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