Nautical Research Journal


7. T e hull blank as it was glued up with the resulting centerboard slot.


without the use of liſt s. I had a 5-inch-square billet of basswood that was perfect. I do not like to waste wood, so I band-sawed it into four pieces. (Figure 5) T e two outer upper pieces became the model and the rest went into my stockpile. Why use two pieces for the model instead of one? Being a centerboard


boat, it needed a slot (detailed on Martin’s plan) and the best way to make it was to rout half of it into each half of a block split down the middle. I used a Dremel rotary tool with a router base for this and routed down just a little less than 1/32-inch. (Figure 6) When the two halves were glued together, the result was the blank in Figure 7. T e next step was to glue copies of the top and profi le views of the hull from the plan to the blank (Figure 8) and cut out the hull. Note that Martin’s sheer draſt (the side view on the block in Figure 8) does not show the height of the deck at the centerline, so I added it aſt erwards. T is was one of those things that easily could have been forgotten, and I almost did. I band-sawed the blank in two steps, fi rst sawing out the top view and then the profi le view. If you are building a hull this way, do not throw out the off cuts. Aſt er cutting out the top view, tape the off cuts back onto the blank and then saw out the profi le, or vice-versa. T e off cuts both stabilize the blank and replace the profi le drawing, which had been cut away. (Figure 9) T e off cuts, taped back on yet again, also help stabilize things when sanding right to the lines on the drawings with


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8. Top and profi le views glued onto the hull blank.


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