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Vol. 65, No. 1 spring 2020 20


5. T e basswood billet, sawed and ready. T e hull


4. T e posable artist’s mannequin I used for the 16 x 30’s skipper. At 5-1/2 inches tall, he would later have his joints fi lled and be painted.


was free! Once I posed him, fi lled his joints, and painted him gray he would turn into a sort of shadow fi gure sailing the boat.


With the mounting and the skipper fi gured out actual building could start. I will highlight some of the tools and fi xtures I used in the process. A few might be old news to some but hopefully they might help other folks. Note, too, that how I do things is clearly not the only way and builders should do what is most comfortable and works best for them.


6. One half of the centerboard slot routed in each piece.


To make things seem to go faster I tend to turn parts of a build into individual models. T is breaks up what can sometimes seem like an endless job into manageable pieces and makes the light at the end of the tunnel at least look a little brighter. T e fi rst of those individual models was the hull, usually a good starting point. As with any scratch-built model there are always options. I have built hulls using the plank- on-bulkhead method, molded custom fi berglass, and carved from solid using separate waterline liſt s. T e small size and relative simplicity of this subject— everything was convex—seemed to dictate a solid hull


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