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Food & Drink Healthy Food & Drink Fresh fl avours


A study in seizing seasonality, this raw artichoke salad lets spring produce speak for itself. Words: Evelyn Richards


For Luke Frankie, it’s a moment


worth leaning into. “Proper cooking, no fuss, no ego,” says the Don’t Tell Dad head chef, whose early training at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen restaurant instilled a lasting respect for fresh, seasonal ingredients. It’s a philosophy that’s run through


his time in some of London’s most infl uential kitchens, from opening Spring with Skye Gyngell to leading roles at Forza Wine. And it fi nds a natural expression in dishes like a spring salad of raw artichoke, rocket, cedro (citron), celery and parmesan. It’s almost austere at fi rst glance,


LUKE FRANKIE/DON’T TELL DAD


lighter plates and a reawakening of long forgotten ingredients. T e fi rst artichokes appear, herbs soften and citrus re-emerges — a brief window where produce is so fl avourful it needs very little intervention.


A


fter months marked by slow braises and root vegetables, the arrival of spring brings sharper fl avours,


but the simplicity is deliberate. Sliced thin, artichoke brings a gentle nuttiness and a clean, green fl avour. Celery adds crunch, particularly the pale inner stalks and their tender leaves. Rocket cuts through with bitterness, while cedro — a thick- skinned, fragrant citrus — lifts everything with aromatic sharpness. T e dressing is just as minimal:


lemon juice, good olive oil, a pinch of salt. Parmesan is shaved over at the end, adding a much-needed depth without overwhelming the more delicate elements. “It’s all about contrast and


restraint,” Luke says. “Nothing is overworked — let the ingredients do the talking.”


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A FRESH, NUTTY ADDITION TO SPRING SPREADS/DON’T TELL DAD


RAW ARTICHOKE SPRING SALAD (SERVES 2-3)


INGREDIENTS • 1 Tema artichoke • Juice of ½ lemon • 2 inner celery sticks (with tender yellow leaves)


• One cedro, thinly sliced • A few sprigs of rocket • A few sprigs of parsley, picked • Good-quality olive oil • Maldon Sea Salt • Black pepper • Parmesan, for shaving


METHOD 1. Prepare the artichoke by removing the tough outer leaves until you reach the tender inner layers. Peel the stalk with a speed peeler and rub with lemon to prevent discolouration. 2. Halve the artichoke, remove the choke with a teaspoon, then rub again with lemon. 3. Finely slice each half and place in a mixing bowl. 4. Thinly slice the celery and add


it, along with its yellow leaves, to the artichoke. Add the slices of cedro. 5. In a separate bowl, dress the rocket and parsley with lemon juice, olive oil and a pinch of salt. Combine everything gently, adding a few shavings of parmesan. 6. Arrange on a plate and fi nish with a sprinkling of cracked black pepper and more parmesan. 7. Serve and enjoy.


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