eyewitness FORAGING IN THE MANGROVES


An early-morning walk through the mangroves in Broome, Western Australia, reveals how this rich ecosystem has sustained the country’s First People since time immemorial


The little octopus didn’t expect to be a spectacle this morning. It was minding its own business — relaxing in an abandoned crab hole, moisturised in a slick layer of dark mud — when out of the blue came a wandering finger. “The octopus just squirted me!” shouts Bart Pigram,


pulling his hand back and laughing at the little jet of water intended to shoo him away. Bart had expected to find some tastier tucker — a mud crab — but was just as surprised as the mollusc he’d disturbed. Taking the octopus’s message, Bart picks up his long metal crab hook and leaves it be, instead leading us further out into the vast mudflats just south of Broome, known to the Yawuru people as Rubibi. It’s 8am and the tide has retreated so far the Indian Ocean


is a barely visible glitter on the horizon. In its wake it’s left hundreds of metres of exposed crab holes and tangled mangrove roots. They emit an aroma a little like rotten eggs, which mingles with the briny air. To my untrained eye, it seems a barren place, but for Bart it’s like a supermarket. In 1990, Broome’s Roebuck Bay in northwestern Australia


was designated a Ramsar wetland — an honour recognising the marine park’s unique ecosystem and the vast web of life


84 NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL


that depends on it. In the warmer months, Bart is joined by nearly 100,000 shorebirds who descend to nest and feast on worms, crabs and molluscs, joining chattering flying foxes roosting in the mangrove trees, snubfin dolphins foraging in the shallows and shy octopuses hiding in the sludge. “Growing up, my family would come out here sometimes


three times a day to eat,” says Bart as he guides us out to the intertidal flats, the path starting as a track between crowded mangroves before opening up to a vast muddy expanse. As a Yawuru man born in Broome, Bart belongs to a long line of custodians (Aboriginal people with responsibility for caring for their land) going back at least 30,000 years. For generations, the Yawuru have lived along the coast, hunting in the mangroves and foraging in the woodlands. Lasting two hours, the walk with Bart, who owns Narlijia


Experiences Broome, is barely enough time to scratch the surface of his knowledge. Charmingly down to earth, Bart tells me how toxic grey mangrove fruit can be eaten after fermenting it in mud for a week, and how his ancestors would light fires at night along the banks to attract unsuspecting mullet and then boomerang them in the dark.


Above from left: Mangroves dot the shallow waters of Roebuck Bay; Yawuru guide Bart Pigram holds a mud crab he’s foraged; the fire Bart prepared to cook the crab on


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