IMAGES: ALAMY; MIHAIL ONACA
The Black Church of Brașov, named after the scorch marks from a fire From left: Bran Castle, said to be the inspiration for Dracula’s
castle; carving wooden spoons is a traditional Romanian craft
TOP FIVE
Museums in Transylvania
MUZEUL ASTRA Located in Sibiu, Europe’s largest open-air museum showcases traditional Romanian rural life. As well as a farmstead, windmills and workshops, there are regular events and festivals.
muzeulastra.ro
THE FIRST ROMANIAN SCHOOL MUSEUM This curious museum is set in a 16th-century former schoolhouse in Brașov. Come to learn more about the history of the Romanian language with displays including a library of 4,000 antique books.
primascoalaromaneasca.ro
DAY ONE CASTLES & COPPERSMITHS
Morning In Brașov, a medieval city with red-tiled roofs and gothic spires, hire a car and head out early to beat the tour buses to 14th-century Bran Castle, 20 miles south. Many believe this fortress, with its bulky turrets and mountain perch, was the real-life inspiration for Castle Dracula. But while Vlad Țepeș — the 15th-century Wallachian prince on whom the bloodthirsty count was based — might have visited once, Stoker never set foot in Transylvania at all. You can’t blame the souvenir-sellers outside the castle for peddling its credentials, but displays inside separate fiction from fact. Fifteen minutes south is Rașnov Fortress, a medieval hilltop citadel that has even better views of the forest-clad Carpathians.
bran-castle.com
cetatea-rasnov.ro
Afternoon Return to Brașov for a lunch of beef cheek with black truffles at Sub Tâmpa. Afterwards, take a look at the red-capped clock tower of the Black Church. The country’s largest gothic church, it earned its name from the scorch marks left by a fire that ravaged the town in 1689. Inside are medieval murals and artefacts, including a 4,000-pipe organ and a collection of Ottoman rugs. Come mid-afternoon, hit the road again. The drive to Sighișoara takes less than two hours, but if you don’t mind a detour, take the route via the village of Brateiu, which adds an hour to the trip. It’s home to a community of Căldărari coppersmiths — Roma artisans whose handicrafts are displayed at stalls by the roadside.
subtampa.com
bisericaneagra.ro
Evening Twilight is an atmospheric time in which to arrive at UNESCO-listed Sighișoara, the citadel believed to be the birthplace of Vlad Țepeș, with its cloud-piercing turrets cutting an ominous silhouette against the rapidly blackening sky. Check into Casa Georgius Krauss, a former nobleman’s residence that’s been turned into a boutique hotel. During the renovations, 17th-century Saxon frescoes and painted ceilings were discovered, which have since been restored and are now preserved in the nine opulent guest rooms. Transylvanian dishes such as pork marinated in țuică (a local plum brandy) are served at the restaurant, as well as wines sourced from various local producers.
casakrauss.ro
BRUKENTHAL NATIONAL MUSEUM The site of the largest of Transylvania’s seven Saxon citadels, Sibiu is also home to Romania’s oldest museum, opened in 1817 in a baroque-style palace. The European artworks here date from the Renaissance to the 18th century.
brukenthalmuseum.ro
SPOONMAN’S SHOP This gallery in Sighișoara showcases Romanian crafts, including carved wooden spoons, ceramics and Christmas decorations, which make great alternatives to the ubiquitous vampire souvenirs.
obiectetraditionale.ro
ETHONOGRAPHICAL MUSEUM OF TRANSYLVANIA This museum, located in the city of Cluj-Napoca, celebrates Romania’s cultural diversity through a collection of traditional clothing, crafts and household items.
muzeul-etnografic.ro
NOVEMBER 2024 49
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