NICE
A single cannon shot marks noon every day. Local lore says it was started in 1860s by Sir Thomas Coventry- More, a Scottish military man who used to holiday in Nice with his wife. The cannon would serve as a reminder to his spouse to return from her daily walks and start preparing lunch
Clockwise from top left: Serving up socca at Chez Teresa; Nice’s main beach curves for three miles around the Bay of Angels, with the Promenade des Anglais running alongside it; browsing market stalls in Cours Saleya; grilled octopus at Sentimi restaurant; the coast road east of Port Lympia leads to many rocky bathing spots
BUY COURS SALEYA MARKET: Set along Cours Saleya in Vieux Nice, this market is over 100 years old. The wooden stalls, covered by striped awnings, host sellers of fresh fruit and vegetables, antique dealers and one of the best-known flower markets in France. During summer evenings, another market pops up, showcasing crafts from local makers. Come here for unique souvenirs, one-of-a-kind jewellery and rare antiques. NICOLAS ALZIARI : Olives and olive oil are key ingredients in local cuisine, and Nicolas Alziari has been producing top-grade, Nice- style olive oil since 1868. The extra virgin olive oil is delicate and mild — perfect for drizzling over dishes or to make a vinaigrette for salads. Nicolas Alziari’s shop in Vieux Nice sells everything from vintage olive oil tins to cooking utensils and olives grown on its estates.
alziari.com.fr CHEZ THERESA: You’ll see fresh socca, a crispy chickpea pancake, cooked and sold on nearly every street corner in Vieux Nice. At Chez Theresa, socca has been cooked in a wood-fired oven since 1925 and is lauded as the best in the city. You’ll also find other traditional Niçoise foods such as pissaladière (a flatbread with onions, olives and anchovies) and chard pie here.
theresa-nice.com
EAT £ LU FRAN CALIN: With tables spilling out
onto the cobblestones of the old town and the chimes of the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate accompanying meals, this traditional restaurant has been awarded Cuisine Nissarde status — a label recognising restaurants that promote typical regional recipes and ingredients. Try the daube (beef stew) or courgette gratin and be sure to book in advance — it’s popular.
lu-francalin.fr £ £ SENTIMI : With Nice sitting less than
15 miles from the Italian border, influences from its neighbour to the south east unsurprisingly run strong in Niçoise cuisine. Sentimi, in the 18th-century Place Garibaldi, revisits the Italian classics with modern flair. The restaurant is famous for its crescenza cheese melted between two thin layers of pizza crust with your choice of toppings, but the grilled octopus is also divine.
sentimi.fr £ £ £ LES BAINS DU CASTEL: Clinging
onto a cliff that juts out above the eastern end of Nice’s main beach, this is a place for special occasions. With views out over the sea and the Promenade des Anglais, it’s at its best at sunset. The menu is heavily geared towards seafood — you’d do well to order the langoustine and peaches, or grilled monkfish.
lesbainsducastel.com
NOVEMBER 2024 159
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