CONTENTS Smart traveller


15 | SNAPSHOT Preparing for the catch in Newlyn, Cornwall 16 | BIG PICTURE The intertidal habitat of Praia da Ursa, Portugal 19 | ON THE RADAR Unusual day tours around the world 21 | COPENHAGEN Something’s brewing in the Danish capital 22 | MALAYSIA Get to know the nation’s most pungent fruit 25 | FOOD Maria Pasquale on the roots of Roman cuisine 27 | EXPERIENCE Hiking Majorca’s Serra de Tramuntana mountains 30 | INSIDE GUIDE Beer kegs and Kraftwerk in Düsseldorf


32 | FAMILY Follow in the pawprints of Paddington in Peru 34 | UK BREAK A windswept escape in the North Pennines 37 | THE WORD Globetrotting podcasts for audio adventurers 38 | KIT LIST Essential travel tech 41 | NOTES FROM AN AUTHOR Zoologist Arik Kershenbaum 42 | COMPETITION Win a trip to Montenegro for four 45 | MEET THE TRAILBLAZER Annette Arjoon-Martins on Guyana’s Indigenous Warau people 46 | ONLINE Weekly highlights from nationalgeographic.com/travel


48 60 170 On the cover Insider


A view of Heart Reef off the coast of Queensland, Australia. Image: Getty


8


48 | WEEKENDER: TRANSYLVANIA Medieval citadels, wolf-spotting and traditional Romanian crafts in the mountain-fringed region 54 | EAT: KANSAS CITY Flame is king in this Midwestern town, home to over 100 barbecue restaurants 60 | SLEEP: MALDIVES The archipelago’s best hotels for lovers of barefoot luxury, minimalist design and accessibility


NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL 37 Travel talk


164 | ASK THE EXPERTS Autumn adventures in Ibiza, literary escapes in Edinburgh and more 166 | THE INFO Marking 35 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall 167 | HOT TOPIC Aisle or window? Newly revised airline seating policies are taking off 170 | HOTEL AWARDS Your guide to the year’s most exciting openings and refurbishments


Get involved


187 | SUBSCRIPTIONS Make the most of our Christmas offer 189 | EVENTS The Masterclasses returns, both online and in person 193 | INBOX Let us know what you think of the magazine for a chance to win a great prize 194 | HOW I GOT THE SHOT Photographer Francesco Lastrucci on capturing Rimini’s blue hour for our October issue


IMAGES: ALAMY; GETTY; AMILLA MALDIVES; ANNA MALMBERG


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