IMAGES: SHUTTERSTOCK; OTILIA HOTEL
SMART TRAVELLER
Left: The elephant gate in the Carlsberg City district, built by Carl Jacobsen Below: A superior double room at Hotel Ottilia with distinctive round windows
Carlsberg City highlights
COPENHAGEN
CRAFTING PERFECTION
Carlsberg’s old brewing district has been redeveloped, offering creative new ways to enjoy Copenhagen
If Carlsberg did family rivalries, they’d probably be the best family rivalries in the world. Jacob Jacobsen, founder of the Danish brewery, and his son Carl disagreed about pretty much everything, resulting in such impressive beef that they created an entire district in Copenhagen in a bid to out-do one another. Jacob established his brewery on a site west
of the city centre in 1847, with his son splitting to form his own brewery, Ny Carlsberg, in the area in 1882. Over the years, their competitive spirit led to an impressive architectural one-upmanship, with the men initiating a flurry of construction that included stately villas, monumental gateways and elegant cobbled squares. We can be thankful for their generational
squabbling today. While the brewing industry largely moved out of the neighbourhood
in 2006, the family’s extraordinary legacy remains. A 15-year-long project to remodel the now-monikered Carlsberg Byen (Carlsberg City) is nearing completion, with industrial sites transformed into Copenhagen’s newest creative district. Buildings that once stored yeast and malt now house art galleries, interior design stores, bakeries and coffeeshops. Carlsberg-run walking tours lead you through streets buzzing with activity, pointing out various architectural peculiarities and revealing what’s on offer from the neighbourhood’s latest occupants. Coming full circle, Jacob’s brewery has
been turned into an interactive museum, the Home of Carlsberg, which explores both the history of the family and brewing in the city. Beer tastings are included, of course.
carlsbergbyen.dk visitcopenhagen.com AMANDA CANNING
HOTEL OTTILIA Converted from two brewery buildings, this stylish hotel retains plenty of original features, including giant malt hoppers in the high-ceilinged bar. Don’t miss the free drinks at the daily Wine and Nightcap Hours or the rooftop Italian restaurant. From DKK995 (£112).
brochner-hotels.com
AAMANNS GENBO Smørrebrød, the Danish open sandwich, is reimagined by chef Adam Aamann in his cosy restaurant. A beef sandwich, for example, is served on organic rye sourdough and comes with béarnaise cream, pickled cucumbers, mushrooms and crispy potato. Its best paired with a rye-bread schnapps.
aamanans.dk
KEDELHALLEN The old brewery’s former boiler house, Kedelhallen has become something of a cultural hub in the neighbourhood, with Denmark’s national centre of dance, Dansehallerne, moving in, as well as a bakery and a popular taqueria. Fittingly enough, a brewery has returned, too: ÅBEN Brewery serves locally made IPAs, sours, pilsners and stouts.
carlsbergbyen.dk
NOVEMBER 2024
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