IMAGES: IT MALLORCA UNIQUE SPACES; ALAMY
SMART TRAVELLER
From left: Hotel Valldemossa is housed in a 19th-century country manor house with easy access to the mountains; a cyclist passes through the artists’ village of Deià, on the edge of the Tramuntana mountains
THREE MORE Active experiences in the Tramuntana
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Cycling The Tramuntana mountains
are a winter training ground for professional cycling teams, but the terrain is a joy for leisure cyclists, too. Two of the best routes are Sa Calobra — six miles of hairpin bends; and the 70-mile west coast road from Pollensa to Andratx, which takes in the island’s highest pass and villages including Valldemossa.
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without cement to let rainwater filter onto farmland; snow houses, once used to collect, press and store ice; fire holes for carbonising oak tree trunks into charcoal; and pits to burn limestone with the leftover branches, creating valuable quicklime. Most hikes ascend gently to views of the
Mediterranean, then head back past olive groves — one of the island’s main sources of income until the advent of tourism in the 1960s. Finally, they circle back to Valldemossa. Its monumental monastery, with turquoise church tower, never looks better than from a distance, promising you’ll soon be back in the village and able to put your feet up.
The stay Hotel Valldemossa is set within a recently renovated 19th-century manor house, formerly used as accommodation for the monastery, and remains every bit the sanctuary. It’s perched on its own hillock a 10-minute walk from the village, providing easy access to both the mountains and the centre, as well as peace to help you recharge after a hike. The whole experience at this adults-only
property revolves around wellness, be it fitness or relaxation, and makes the most of
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the natural setting. There’s a herb garden with hammocks, and yoga mats in your room that you can take to al fresco morning classes. The hotel’s gym is set on an open-air terrace, while a cycling centre offers rentals, coaching and guided tours. Guests can choose between a garden swimming pool or cavernous indoor option. The holistic spa, aptly called The Sanctuary, has a treatment menu that’s 26 pages long. The 12 rooms, each with a high-walled
terrace, add to the sense of seclusion. Owner Cristina Martí is a designer and collector, and everything from the furniture — all wicker and animal print — to the light fixtures has been sourced from high-end design brands. While nothing is on sale, the staff are on hand should you wish to learn more about any of the pieces. Still, you’ll be able to take a piece of the region back home with you through the custom-made natural fragrance gifted with each stay. ANGELA LOCATELLI
HOW TO DO IT: Airlines including British Airways and Jet2 fly direct from UK hubs to Palma de Mallorca airport in around 2h. Hotel Valldemossa is a 30-minute drive from there. Doubles start from €467 (£395), B&B.
valldemossahotel.com
Canyoning Thrill-seekers in the know
flock to the Tramuntana’s rocky terrain. Options range from mountain climbing to coasteering, but canyoning is especially popular, with companies like Mon d’Aventura offering guided outings. That at Sa Fosca gorge, with rock walls that reach up to 984ft, is widely seen as one of Europe’s best.
mondaventura.com
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Kitesurfing With sure and steady
winds, the north west of Majorca is the best spot for kitesurfing in the Balearics. About an hour’s drive from Valldemossa, at the opposite side of the Tramuntana, Bahía de Pollensa is the only beach where the sport is allowed year-round. You’ll find schools for all levels — and you only need to look up to see the mountains meet the sea.
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