WEEKENDER
TOP 3
Portuguese pit stops
DAY TWO SWIMMING & SHOPPING
FOR ESPETADAS Sit shoulder-to-shoulder at Funchal Paradise, a tiny restaurant that feels like stepping into a Madeiran guesthouse. Among the specials are espetadas (hanging skewers of grilled meat and fish), served with milho frito (cubed and fried cornmeal), rice, chips and salad. It’s as popular with the Jersey locals as it is with the Madeiran expats.
facebook.com/funchal- paradise
FOR CATAPLANA Mano’s Bistro is an airy restaurant tucked in the corner of West Centre in St Helier (look out for the life-size bronze sculptures of Jersey cattle). Most of the customers are drawn here for the hearty Portuguese dishes like cataplana (a seafood or meat stew) or picadinho (a meat casserole cooked with garlic and bay leaves).
manos-bistro.com
FOR PASTÉIS DE NATA At Alfonso Bakery & Coffee Shop, the tempting display of pastries and cakes includes these classic custard tarts, as well as malassadas (yeast doughnuts) and bolo rei (also known as Christmas king’s cake, a ring-shaped treat topped with candied peel and icing sugar). Alfonso also runs a nearby supermarket, where you can stock up on the likes of piri-piri sauce and bacalhau (salt cod). 41 The Parade and 59 Bath Street, St Helier.
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nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
MORNING Start the day at shingly Archirondel Beach, on the east of the island. The iconic white-and- red painted tower that dominates the bay is a Jersey Heritage let — ideal if you want somewhere memorable to stay. Take a dip with the locals (who swim here year-round), then warm up with a mug of hot chocolate from the Driſtwood Cafe. Head on to Mont Orgueil Castle, an 800-year-old fortress that looms over Gorey harbour and is regarded as one of the best surviving examples of a medieval castle in the British Isles. Entry includes a tour with a local guide, who’ll share their enthusiasm for the exhibits, including the curious wheel of urine — a medieval chart that helped doctors diagnose illnesses.
AFTERNOON Make your way into the capital, St Helier, for lunch. For something light, try one of the cafes in the Victorian covered Central Market, where you can sit and watch the florists and fruit vendors ply their trade. Gourmets, meanwhile, will want to book ahead for a table at chef Callum Graham’s one-Michelin- star Bohemia, with its affordable lunchtime set menu. Nearby King Street has two independent department stores — Voisins and De Gruchy — that are ideal for VAT-free purchases (you’ll pay just the 5% GST here). For a distinctly local souvenir, pop into Maison de Jersey for a jar of black butter, a conserve traditionally made with the apple pulp leſt over from cider-making.
EVENING Start your evening at hidden- away Project 52, accessed via an unmarked door on Waterloo Lane. If you find the speakeasy atmosphere of this bijou bar so enticing that you’re tempted to spend your whole evening here, order a gin flight: a variety of gins served in apothecary bottles with complimentary botanicals and flavoured tonic waters. Alternatively, wander on to The Royal Yacht hotel, where you can choose between three popular restaurants for dinner: The Grill, for expertly cooked steak; Zephyr, for laid-back Asian fusion; and Sirocco, for Australasian-inspired fine dining. Aſterwards, head to one of the onsite bars to drink and dance into the early hours.
Market Street, St Helier, as viewed from inside the Central Market RIGHT: Floats taking part in the Jersey Battle of Flowers parade
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