Q // What’s the situation with ‘cowboy’ Covid-19 testing companies, and what should I look for when booking my travel tests?


From 4 October, fully vaccinated travellers returning to England from non-red-list countries no longer have to take a pre- departure test. However, a day-two test aſt er arrival is still required, and that’s before you consider any tests required for other countries. The government has started to crack down on test providers using bait and switch, where the price advertised isn’t the price you pay, but there’s still a risk that results aren’t returned in time before travel. It’s essential, then, to fi nd a provider that can meet deadlines. You won’t necessarily fi nd one on the government’s list; while it’s


a good place to start your search, it contains hundreds of providers, some of which have poor customer ratings. Instead, look for a provider that limits sales of postal tests (this applies for both outbound and day-two tests). Companies like Testing for All cap sales to ensure they have enough lab capacity to issue results on time. Comprehensive refund policies are a good sign, too, as they act as an incentive to get things right. C19 refunds any test that takes longer than 24 hours to analyse, and you can drop off samples directly at labs in London and Manchester. testingforall.org c19testing.co.uk RORY BOLAND


Q // I’m looking to visit Lanzarote this winter but would like to discover a diff erent side to the island. What do you suggest?


It might off er the usual beach experience, but Lanzarote, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, has many other natural advantages, too. There’s all that dramatic frozen lava: a striking backdrop to any hike or trail run, particularly if you’re used to running in green countryside. To immerse yourself in the eeriest landscapes, book a guided walk along the volcanic Tremesana Route in Timanfaya National Park. You can even cross the island from top to toe by following the 44-mile Órzola to Playa Blanca Nature Trail, part of the GR131 trail that runs across the Canary Islands. If cycling is your thing, you’ll be


in good company: elite athletes train here, particularly in the north, home of the Ironman Lanzarote. The clear, breezy air lends itself to watersports and stargazing, too. Caleta de Famara is perfect for surfi ng, and the Peñas del Chache lookout in Haría has mind-blowing views of the Milky Way aſt er dark. To seek out the quietest,


Q // I’d like to try a truffl e- hunting tour or course in the UK this season. Are there any you recommend?


English truffl es are on a trajectory similar to that of our sparkling wine: going from little-known product to drawing deserved respect in culinary circles. While it’s accepted that our native truffl es don’t pack the punch of their French cousin, the Périgord (Tuber melanosporum), which is now cultivated worldwide, English native truffl es can be a revelation. A prerequisite of any


experience should always be a seasoned guide who can explain the full picture. The English Truffl e Company will get you up to speed in Dorset, Wiltshire and Hampshire between late September and January each year. A day-long experience starts with a truffl e 101 of sorts, delving into the fascinating mycology at play, as well as where they grow, what to look for, and the important question of eating. In between lunch and aſt ernoon


tea, where you’ll be served a simple truffl e dish, you take to the woods with truffl e hunter James Feaver and his dogs. The prize? The delicacy that is black autumn truffl e (Tuber uncinatum). Wiltshire Truffl es is a name


known to the country’s top chefs. While founder Zak Frost doesn’t operate tours or courses, he does recommend booking in-season at restaurants that have nurtured the renaissance of English truffl es. Among them are The Fat Duck, in Bray, Berkshire, and The Pig’s portfolio of restaurants with rooms, many of which are in the truffl e heartlands of the South West. Adam Handling’s restaurant, Ugly Butterfl y, in Cornwall’s Carbis Bay, gets the nod. englishtruffl es.co.uk wiltshiretruffl es.com MAX BREARLEY


prettiest beaches, try the gnarly north east, between Órzola and Jameos del Agua; the coastline here is dotted with appealing little bays, where black rocks contrast with dazzling, white sand. EMMA GREGG


THE EXPERTS


NICK DALTON // SKI WRITER


RORY BOLAND // EDITOR, WHICH? TRAVEL WHICH.CO.UK


MAX BREARLEY // FOOD AND TRAVEL WRITER


EMMA GREGG // TRAVEL WRITER


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