BUENOS AIRES
FROM LEFT: An exhibit at Ruth Benzacar, one of the many modern art galleries in Villa Crespo; Plaza de Mayo, the city’s oldest public square; the shopfront of Rut’s Catering, a Jewish-owned deli in Villa Crespo; Palacio Barolo on Avenida de Mayo PREVIOUS PAGE: Facade of Casa de los Azulejos, an art nouveau building in the Microcentro business hub of San Nicolás
SEE & DO XUL SOLAR MUSEUM: Built in 1993 to
celebrate Argentinian artist Xul Solar, this museum contains his former apartment and library of 3,500 books. The building’s brutalist design and labyrinthine layout were inspired by his mystical works, which included made-up languages, tarot decks and experimental instruments, and are fascinating to explore.
xulsolar.org.ar MARTÍN GARCÍA ISLAND: A visit to this nature reserve takes in the scenic Tigre Delta en route, reached via a two-and-a- quarter-hour catamaran service from the Estación Fluvial river port in Tigre. While here, visit the traditional bakery, famous for its pan dulce (a panettone-style cake of Italian origin) and walk around the ruins of the prison where former Argentine president Juan Perón was held in 1945. Sturla Viajes offers guided day trips to the island. To stay longer, book into the island’s campsite or simple hostel.
islamartingarcia.tur.ar sturlaviajes.tur.ar CONFITERÍA DEL MOLINO: One of the city’s finest examples of art nouveau architecture, dating back to 1916, the Confitería del Molino coffeehouse has been painstakingly restored over the past three years. Its emblematic cafe, with grand, stained-glass windows and marble pillars, is set to reopen in 2022.
delmolino.gob.ar
BELGRANO R ENGLISH QUARTER: Buenos Aires’ English Quarter, Belgrano R, is characterised by late-19th-century mansions and cobbled streets, making it ideal for a leisurely stroll. Originally inhabited by British nationals working in railroad construction, it’s now an upscale residential area peppered with embassies. Avenida Melián, with its canopy of tipa trees and dappled sunlight, easily wins the prize for the city’s most photogenic street. VILLA CRESPO ART DISTRICT: When hallowed gallery Ruth Benzacar made the bold move to leave the established downtown arts district for a converted warehouse in Villa Crespo in 2014, other galleries soon followed suit. Nora Fisch, La Ira de Dios, Gachi Prieto, Hache and Pabellón 4 are some of the key spaces to visit in the now-vibrant, post-industrial neighbourhood. Watch out for the next instalment of Gallery Days, an aſternoon of tours, open studios and performances.
ruthbenzacar.com
norafisch.com
lairadedios.com.ar gachiprieto.com
hachegaleria.com
pabellon4.com
gallery.com.ar SAN MARTÍN CULTURAL CENTRE: Extensively restored in 2017, this modernist architectural gem, designed by Mario Roberto Álvarez in 1960, spans 13 floors, offering multipurpose auditoriums with exceptional acoustics, an arthouse cinema and a gallery with free
exhibitions of exceptional Argentinian photography. A rich programme of ballet, opera, theatre and music concerts runs all year.
elculturalsanmartin.ar LA REPÚBLICA DE LOS NIÑOS: This 130-acre children’s theme park was dreamt up by the Eva Perón Foundation and inaugurated in 1951. It’s thought to have provided the inspiration for Disneyland; allegedly, Walt Disney noted the chocolate-box houses and turreted buildings at its initial opening, although it’s more likely he saw the plans during a visit in the 1940s. The ‘Children’s Republic’ is essentially a rainbow-coloured model city, featuring a child-friendly parliament, courthouse, church, theatre, restaurants and even an airport. cultura.
laplata.gob.ar/listings/republica-de-los-ninos PARQUE CENTENARIO: Built in 1910 to celebrate the centenary of the revolution that kick-started Argentina’s War of Independence, this landscaped pleasure ground is an amuse-bouche of Porteño life, best experienced on weekends when you can peruse the secondhand book stalls and bustling flea market. Located on the perimeter, the ornate edifice of the Bernardino Rivadavia Museum of Natural Science houses astonishing regional dinosaur finds, while architecture buffs will appreciate the brutalist Naval Hospital, designed to resemble a ship.
macnconicet.gob.ar
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