BUENOS AIRES
EAT LA MEZZETTA: This unpretentious
Porteño institution remains virtually unchanged since it opened in the 1930s in the Chacarita neighbourhood. Sample its signature deep-pan muzzarella, bubbling- hot pizza oozing with cheesy goodness. It’s typical to eat it standing, perhaps with a slice of chickpea faina flatbread, washed down with a locally brewed Quilmes lager.
instagram.com/pizzerialamezzetta PARRILLA PEÑA: The unfussy decor
and starched white tablecloths of this traditional steakhouse mean the food does the talking: Parilla Peña’s fried beef empanadas are the stuff of legend. Go for a tender lomo (tenderloin steak) or try other flavoursome beef cuts like entraña (skirt) or vacio (flank). Leave room for a flan mixto, a crème caramel served with lashings of cream and dulce de leche.
instagram.com/parrillitapena CHUÍ: This experimental, open-plan
bistro was one of the most hyped openings of 2021, adding to a modern dining scene dominated by adventurous young chefs. The evolving menu fuses seasonal ingredients and wide-ranging influences with unorthodox textures and fermentations; the fridges display an impressive array of fungi, harvested every couple of days.
instagram.com/
chui.ba
132
nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel
LIKE A LOCAL MINGLE WITH TANGO CROONERS: Pull
up a pew at El Boliche de Roberto, a legendary haunt steeped in tango heritage. The dusty bottles behind the bar are testament to the establishment’s vintage: the venue dates back to 1893, when it was a watering hole for horse traders. Order a fernet (a bitter, aromatic local spirit, oſten served with cola) and wait for the musicians to strike up. Expect impromptu renditions of tango numbers from local performers dressed the part in traditional garb.
facebook.com/elbolichederobertook SUPPORT THE ARGENTINOS JUNIORS: While a Superclásico match (played between rival superclubs Boca Juniors and River Plate) is oſten touted as the ultimate local experience, an Argentinos Juniors game in their home stadium in La Paternal is equally lively — and it’s far easier to get tickets. Since former player Maradona’s passing last year, murals and impromptu shrines have popped up along the perimeter walls.
argentinosjuniors.com.ar PEOPLE-WATCH AT CAFÉ PAULIN: Opened in 1981 and leſt more or less untouched for 40 years, the U-shaped bar, leather stools, mirrored walls and time-warp decor of Paulin make it the quintessential downtown lunch spot. Sandwich orders are given to the kitchen over an echoey tannoy and fly out on plates along the polished bar minutes later.
Steak a claim // Argentina is famous for some of the world’s best beef, and its citizens tend to prefer their steak well done, so order rarer than you’d normally like. ‘Vuelta y vuelta’ is blue, ‘jugosa’ is bloody, ‘a punto’ is medium rare and ‘bien cocida’ is well done
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Chuí, one of this year’s most exciting restaurant openings; Quorum, which sells prints from Argentinian artists; Marcos Altgelt, a designer working and selling in the Concepción studio space; mushroom, lemon and dill dish at Chuí
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164
