CITY LIFE


BUENOS AIRES


ZZZ Famed for its boulevards and ballrooms, the Argentine


capital is reinventing itself through restaurant collaborations, a new arts district and a revamped dockland park WORDS: Vanessa Bell PHOTOGRAPHS: Javier Pierini


T


hink Buenos Aires and the European associations are inevitable. Its reputation as the ‘Paris of South


America’ has its roots in the late 1800s when the ideal of modernity among well-heeled Porteños (as Buenos Aires’ citizens are known) was modelled on France. From fashion to ornate facades, the capital of the fledgling independent Argentina — and its growing population of European émigrés — fostered a Parisian vogue that reached fever pitch in the early 20th century, when it welcomed a who’s who of avant-garde creatives, from Marcel Duchamp to Le Corbusier. But to declare the city’s heyday long past,


its glamour faded, its Camelot fallen, or to dwell too heavily on its history — Argentina’s string of coup d’états and dictatorships between 1930 and 1983 — is to misunderstand the dynamism and daring spirit woven into the fabric of modern-day Buenos Aires. This is a city whose track record proves that periods of adversity only pave the way for sparkling reinvention. Testament to this are the innovations


that have taken place within the city’s culinary scene in the past year — pivots and new enterprises that nimbly responded to the devastating rhythms of the pandemic like tango dancers in the city’s (presently shuttered) milonga ballrooms. While artisanal coffee shops switched to


selling cups-to-go via hatches, elsewhere, collaborative culinary initiatives like F5 appeared. By day, a breezy bakery and brunch spot in the heart of the city, run by baker Francisco Seubert, at night, the venue passes into the hands of Rodrigo Sieiro and Tomás Romero, who serve up modern iterations of traditional cantina food. Local gourmands also benefitted when lauded experimental restaurant Anchoita decided during lockdown to reopen as a pop-up ice cream parlour. When life gives you lemons? In this case, Porteños made fresh and fruity gelato. Even outside of the pandemic, the best way


to connect with the city is by foot — ideally with a local guide. Enjoy stately Avenida del Libertador and Avenida Figueroa Alcorta, laden with purple jacaranda blossom. Linger awhile in the buzzy meeting spots of Plaza Mafalda and Barrancas de Belgrano; explore the revamped dockside nature reserve of Puerto Madero; soak up the sun in Parque Las Heras. Be intrepid — lesser-visited neighbourhoods like Caballito, Almagro, Boedo and San Cristóbal are home to a treasure trove of timeless vignettes. On weekend aſternoons, when the lull of the siesta is palpable and the light begins to soſten, join the old-timer clientele at retro corner bars and see neighbours chatting on their doorsteps over mate tea. Buenos Aires’ glory days are far from over.


November 2021 127


IMAGE: AWL IMAGES


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