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PAID CONTENT FOR KENYA TOURI SM BOARD
A TALE OF TWO CITIES The inside guide
From the pulsing beat of capital Nairobi to the gentle lapping shores of lakeside Kisumu, we take a dive into two of Kenya’s cities
NAI R O B I THE DYNAMIC EAST AFRICAN CAPITAL With a bustling, modern centre, Kenya’s capital, Nairobi, is far more than just a springboard bouncing adventurers into East Africa’s safari heartlands. It’s a multi- faceted city, strong on culture, commerce and even wildlife-watching. Its streets can be frenetic, with hawkers dodging traffi c jams and matatus (minibuses) hurtling along and stereos blaring, but its ample green spaces ensure there’s tranquility to be found. Unusually for a fast-growing capital,
Nairobi National Park, immediately south of the city, protects four of the Big Five: rhinos, lions, leopards and buff aloes
wilderness is on the doorstep: land at Jomo Kenyatta International or Wilson Airport in the morning and you can be in lion country for lunch. Nairobi National Park, a generous stretch of greenbelt with genuine conservation clout, lies immediately south of the city — there are several hotels and lodges on the periphery of the national park. The park protects four of the Big Five, including rhinos, lions, leopards and buff aloes; for the fi fth, head to the adjoining Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, which cares for orphaned elephants. Nairobi’s other leading wildlife sanctuary, The Giraff e Centre in Langata, has Rothschild giraff es, who famously like to pop their heads in for breakfast at Giraff e Manor, the upmarket hotel next door. Nairobi buzzes with commercial activity,
with streetfood connoisseurs snapping up fresh fruit, grilled maize, chapatis and mutura (spicy sausage), bargain hunters sifting through secondhand clothing in Gikomba Market and souvenir shoppers haggling over baskets and bangles in the
Maasai Markets. Social enterprises and craft co-operatives operate open workshops and showrooms: at Kazuri Beads, ceramicists craft glossy beads, while Kitengela Hot Glass upcycles bottles into ornaments. Ocean Sole turns fl ip-fl ops into bright sculptures and Spinners Web has pieces from weavers, stitchers and local food and coff ee producers. The cosmopolitan restaurant scene
includes Carnivore, where hungry diners enjoy dawa cocktails and barbecued meat including crocodile and ostrich (farmed, for conservation reasons). Vegetarians and vegans can browse the sustainable menu at Boho Eatery in the leafy suburb of Karen, or at one of the city’s many excellent Indian restaurants such as Chowpaty in Westlands, home to the UN’s African headquarters.
Nairobi has many vehicle rental companies, taxis, Ubers and buses. Cash-strapped locals often hail matatus. Rush hour can be chaotic, so plan accordingly. To explore Nairobi National Park, you ideally need a 4WD.
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