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PAID CONTENT FOR KENYA TOURI SM BOARD
K I S UMU KENYA’S LAKESIDE CITY Once just a trading post and fishing village on Lake Victoria’s northeastern shore, Kisumu is now Kenya’s third-largest city. Despite its prodigious population growth, however, it’s far smaller and airier than Nairobi and Mombasa, with a calm, up-country feel. That’s not to say Kisumu is sleepy; thanks to recent waves
of investment, boosted by preparations for the ninth UCLG Africa Africities Summit, which it will host, there’s a spring in the city’s step. Billions of Kenyan shillings have been spent on renewing its ferry dock, fishing port, airport and Nakuru-Kisumu railway, and new tree-shaded pavements with solar-powered lighting have made the commercial centre greener and more pedestrian-friendly. To learn about local heritage, head for the city-centre
Kisumu Museum, which celebrates Luo customs through a collection of tribal artefacts, a full-scale model village, drumming and dance. For a slice of contemporary life, walk around the daily Jubilee Market, the best in the region, with vendors selling everything from dried Lake Victoria tilapia, neatly stacked tomatoes and giant watermelons to kettles, textiles and wigs. Kisumu also has a Maasai Market similar to but generally cheaper than Nairobi’s, with souvenirs such as clothing, beads and soapstone carvings. When you’re ready to refuel, grab some finger food from
The Backyard Patio on Ogada Street, or order something from the grill at Lolwe Lounge, a stylish new garden bar that catches the lake breeze — a boon on the city’s hottest days. Kisumu’s revamped port serves commercial shipping
rather than travellers, but there are great views of Winam Gulf — the extension of Lake Victoria on which the city stands — from Hippo Point, southwest of town. Nearby restaurant Le Pearl offers fried fish, ugali (a starchy porridge) and cool Tusker beers, with golden sunsets thrown in. To see more of Africa’s largest freshwater lake and fringes,
seek out the community-run Dunga Beach Ecotourism project, which offers birdwatching, boat trips and homestays in a Luo fishing village. Alternatively, book a stay at an island eco-lodge or campsite. Ndere Island appeals to birdwatchers, while Mfangano has fig trees, boulders and Batwa rock art. Heading inland, you’ll soon find yourself immersed
in West Kenya, homeland of Barack Obama Sr, father of the former US president. It’s an appealingly rural region, scattered with ultra-lush smallholdings and precious pockets of equatorial trees such as Kakamega Forest.
Locals who don’t have their own transport get around town by boda boda (bicycle or motorbike taxi), tuk-tuk (auto rickshaw) or matatu. You can charter a motorboat to Ndere Island from Hippo Point in Kisumu. Mfangano Island can be reached by matatu and motorboat via the lakeshore hamlet of Mbita. Kenya has now been added to the UK’s Rest of the World category.
LEFT: Rhino in front of the city of Nairobi, Nairobi National Park RIGHT FROM TOP: Fishing boat sailing in Lake Victoria, Africa’s largest lake by area; Dunga fishing village near Kisumu; eating a fruit salad in Nairobi
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