SMART TRAVELLER
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4 CROWNS ENGINE HOUSES Head north to the Tin Coast: seven miles of trails scattered with ruins that testify to Cornwall’s mining heritage, which dates to the Bronze Age. Highlights include the Crowns Engine Houses at Botallack Mine, an iconic pair of cliffside ruins; Levant Mine, home to a restored 1840s beam engine; and Geevor Tin Mine, where you can browse exhibits and even venture underground.
tincoast.co.uk
ON THE TRAIL WEST CORNWALL
From scenic beaches to abandoned tin mines, some of the county’s most spectacular sights await on the new, 150-mile West Kernow Way cycle route. Words: Emma Sparks
1 PENZANCE With its pirate-worthy drinking holes, chic B&Bs and art galleries, pretty Penzance is more than just a jumping-off point — you’ll also want to spend time admiring its treasures. Jewel in the crown is the art deco Jubilee Pool, the UK’s largest seawater lido. Have a swim or cram in some calories with a coffee and Cornish bacon bap at the adjacent cafe before setting off along the revamped promenade.
lovepenzance.co.uk
2 MINACK THEATRE A 12-mile-pedal along coastal roads and single-track lanes brings you to Porthcurno, with its sheltered beach. Follow the South West Coast Path to the nearby Minack Theatre, which rises over the Atlantic like an ancient Greek ruin. Built in 1932, the outdoor performance space is encircled by subtropical gardens. Book ahead to take a guided tour or catch a show.
minack.com
3 LAND’S END Rejoin the trail, admiring the waves at surfer-friendly Sennen Cove as you hook a leſt towards Land’s End, the westernmost point in mainland England. On a clear day, it’s possible to see the Isles of Scilly, 28 miles offshore. Legend has it they were once connected to the mythical mainland kingdom of Lyonesse, but it was submerged overnight during a terrible storm.
landsend-landmark.co.uk
5 MÊN-AN-TOL Penwith Peninsula is said to have the highest concentration of Neolithic sites in Europe — you’ll pass dozens while traversing these rugged moorlands; Mên-an- Tol is arguably the most curious. The formation of standing stones is notable for its ring- shaped stone. This mysterious megalith is flanked by two phallic neighbours, giving rise, ahem, to the notion that this spot was once used for fertility rituals.
6 ST MICHAEL’S MOUNT The route ends in the town of Marazion, across the bay from castle-topped tidal island St Michael’s Mount. At low tide, wander along the causeway linking it to the mainland, following in the footsteps of pilgrims and Queen Victoria herself. The island was a filming location for House of the Dragon, the forthcoming Game of Thrones prequel.
stmichaelsmount.co.uk cyclinguk.org
November 2021 27
ILLUSTRATION: MARTIN HAAKE
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